RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi,

In the following two posts, i am finishing the running train and starting the upper hull.

Last thing remaining to do on the running train were these suspension arm bumpers. They look like a smiling dog face.
Rough plasticard material made of 4mm plates and tube sections are cut and glued together to create the main body for the bumpers.
Sanding with a nail file creates the shape.
Details are added one after another, no real difficulty, it just take a couple of hours.
And here we have the Doggy face reproduced.
Ten of them are created in a small assembly chain.
And mounted on the chassis. Notice that i had to reduce the return rollers diameter further in order to create the required space for the tracks that will run between the return rollers the fenders that will be positioned above at the marked line. Every fraction of millimetres counts and make a difference on such builds.
Finally, the running train is finished (except for the tracks) and i can move on to something more interesting. On order and awaited are Shapeways M41 wheel caps, ten 5x12x4 ball bearings for the roadwheels and also a set of metal tracks to finish the lower hull sides.
Moving to the upper hull. It is the first time that i build an M-24 in any scale. It is with some excitement that i study the various components that need to be reproduced. Its fun to learn and deal with something new.
continuing on following post.

The glacis is resting on top of the side armored plates, while the rest is resting within the side plates. This is important.
Careful study and measurements are required. The upper hull is made of 10 different flat sections with many angles to manage.
First part to do is the glacis, it is important to respect the thickness of the armor so i did it in 1.5mm plasticard. The bolted removable gearbox hatch on the glacis is a important trademark of the M24 Chaffee and must reproduced with care and accuracy. I decided to make it functional with brass bolts to be installed later.
The central section where the turret will sit on is made of thick 3mm plasticard. Supports are created inside the hull along the rim. The whole upper section need to be made removable to access the electronics. The top will solidly slide within the side armor, probably without need for magnets to stay in place.
Front part and angles are cut and in the case of the back angles, they are partially cut and simply folded a bit. The hole for the turret is made with a roundel cutter using the back of the blade to slowly grind the 3mm plasticard for a perfect round hole of the right size. The residual roundel will be used with the turret later.
It is critical to properly position the central section,
The requirements for the angles of the central section are simple; make the base for the turret absolutely horizontal.
Added basic forms for the forward elements that will contain the driver's and driver's assistant hatches. These are done in 1.5mm plasticard as i will create a rest for opening hatches. Also put on the rear section for the engine hatch and grills. Enough for today. The M24 chassis is taking shape. It is simpler than i expected.
The model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis

Now I stop watching your built.
When I see what you are able to do on this so cute little tank, I'm far too jealous!
It is an absolutely stunning build so I want one but won't be able to get it!

Hi,

I hope this build is interesting.

After all the main components of the upper hull are roughly cut, its time to put them together. Solidity is important, braces are created to make the whole upper deck stick together on its own, be able to be lifted and removable to access the electronics.
A lot of care and attention went into making sure everything is as it should be, symmetric, smooth and solid. The holes for the driver's and assistant hatches are perforated before gluing the parts.
Here is a view with the upper cover removed. Solid attachment braces are done for the front, while magnets are used for the middle section, and one magnet was required at the back right corner where the cover had a tendency to raise by 1mm.
Now, i am attacking the detailing of the upper hull. It is probably the most pleasant step of the build. The idea is to pick one item at a time and do the best i can to reproduce without going overboard. I started with the engine air outlet grill at the back.
This is the air outlet grill, viewed from the turret. The two pipes on either side at the front are the exhaust pipes.
Grills need to be strait. I am using a shaped plasticard for the grill (sorry i do not have the brand or the code). It is much simpler this way than to try to create grill blades and put them strait. After the frame is done, the grill itself is done in about 2 minutes. It would otherwise be a real lengthy challenge. I would never be able to do a better job. Once the bottom of the grills are painted black, it will not make much difference between this solution and real grill. Only the guys that count grill blades will notice.
Time is better spent on detailing the rest of the grill. This is the finished back engine grill and exhaust.
Detail views. Side bolts are Knupfer M0.8, the bottom and top bolts are M0.6 with washers.
The model as it stands today. Next step, the turret rings and the air inlet grill.
Regards, Louis

Who knew a Chaffee was so complex !?
The exhausts are in a most inconvenient spot by the looks, makes the engine deck less flexible as a stowage or travel platform.

Louis brilliant build I agree with Herman I had no idea this little beast was so complex. You as always have done it great justice following along

Amazing details as always

Thank you Herman, Carl and Kaczor. So far, its symmetric flat armor plates on both sides, not too bad.

Continuing on the chassis;

The turret rings.
This is the air intake module under construction. I had difficulty finding reference on this as it is mostly hidden under the turret basket. I had to rely on the 1/35 kit for most information.
The finished air intake.
And mounted on the back of the hull. It is starting to look like an M24 chassis.
The rear deck is still missing a lot of brackets and other tiny items but i will keep these for the end of the build so that they are not damaged during construction.
The fuel caps are from Shapeways and augmented with a metal rod for the locking mechanism and a small brass strip on the hull for the guard. Screws for the armor panels are M1 brass bolts.
That air intake module was a bit of work. Did the best i could with the available material.
Next step, the gearbox frontal hatch and the bow machine gun.

Regards, Louis

Very nice attention to detail !

You may buy a small resin printer, it would cost the price of 2 or 3 shapeways order but you could do as many parts as you want, and no need to wait for them to being made and shipped by shapeways
Was using them at first, then I switched with my own printers, it's not only cheaper, it's also better quality and doesnt have that powdery finish.

Not sure if those caps are standard but I molded the one of the Stuart kit (the small ones) because those are the same size and kind that the ones used on the Sherman (to upgrade my Heng Long one), the Chaffee ones seem to be the same.

MonsieurTox wrote:You may buy a small resin printer

Fully agree with that. I've been looking for a while but i am getting lost in all the brands, type of material, etc. Do you or someone reading this has an affordable model to recommend ? I am just looking for a small, but very precise printer to create small and fine resin parts. If it makes printed lines that need to be filed, then that's not for me.

Continuing with the build.

View of the front gearbox hatch that need to be studied. This hatch is the most important recognition trademark of the M24 Chaffee, and very visible, it has to be reproduced perfectly. Notice that the bolts are in recessed slots. The rim of the hatch has an angle at first, then strait. The guards have heavy welding on the outside.
View of the bow machine gun.
Starting with the hatch. In order to represent the recessed slots for the bolts, the hatch is done in two halves and the bolts position are carefully calculated and pre-aligned on both with the holes on the hull.
The two parts are then glued together. The slots for the bolts are perfect.
M1 bolts are used but will only be inserted tightly in position without the need for them to be screwed. There is no tool small enough to screw the bolts all the way into the slots.
To make room for the bow machine gun, the gearbox had to be grinded a bit.
To save some time (not sure it actually did...), I salvaged a Browning M1919 bow machine gun mount from a Heng Long Sherman chassis i had in the scrap yard, left over from some conversion build long time ago.
The mount was then dressed up as an M24 Chaffee bow machine gun. On this picture, i initially placed the internal mounting ring too low. It was later raised as per marked lines. A 12mm plasticard tube section was used as material for the mount.
As usual, an Aber Browning M1919 brass barrel upgrade is used. Seen here with the Heng Long external ball mount.
In order to install a small fiber optic for the machine gun flash, the barrel was cut and the muzzle section that shows externally was drilled hollow.
continuing on following post