RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well, I have at last some usable images of the finished (sort of) T-34/85 so it's time to wrap up my rendition of this iconic tanking version of a brutal Russian streetfighter. I still want to add a little more stowage and tow cables as these seem to be quite a common feature of so many T's, along with the tree saw and the obligatory rusty bucket This has been a difficult build in terms of paint and weathering in particular, no least because I wanted to retain the detail of so many features that are often seen to be lost or missing in the field of action but at the same time aiming to capture the war-weary and battered condition evident in images from that period.
Regardless, I am reasonably happy with my new addition. It doesn't have the innovation I attempted with my Chieftain or M36 but I just like these tanks for their place in history and the sheer attitude they seem to me to exude - or perhaps I am just beyond help, who knows?

Using Ammo's 4BO modulation here I found quite difficult, in some light there appears to much colour, in a different light too little. In the end I just had to trust instinct and hope I could compensate later if necessary during the weathering stages . Just for anyone that might want to know, I using chipping fluid between the top coat and a rust colour layer directly beneath and on top of the primer, the start of chipping process can be seen here too Now the wheels,,,no, let's not talk about the wheels - full-spider, half a spider, dead spider, dished. or not, etc, etc. I had a plan - I use the one's I had (well, a couple of sets actually) . The rest will follow (click to enlarge): I'm not mad keen on the dryied on mud effect here (European earth). It looks ok, I think, on the wheels and tracks but not so much on the final drive (rear lower) where to me it more resembles dried concrete. I left for now though as I still like the concrete effect! Ok, yes, I know the louvre's under the cover on the engine deck are not attached to the cover, they are of course normally connected to the deck and open and close there! This was a naughty departure from historical/technical fact simply because I want to use the access the louvre removal created as an easy means of topping up the smoke fluid reservoir and lubricating the gearboxes if and when needed. It works well and makes is easier to make sure the smoke tubes are in place as well, so I can live with this departure. I attached the louvres to the underside of the cover simply because it looks better from above when the cover is closed; Lastly, it drives great (hoping to get a video up at some point) and I must say I am very impressed with the Clark TK40's ultrasonic drive (I've only had TK22 and TK24 before) . It's not only quieter but much smoother on the controls making a lot easier to drive at very slow scale speeds.

Dr. Phibes,

I'm not a huge fan of Russian armor, but I must say that's about the sexiest T34/85 that I have ever seen! The weathering and wear and tear on it are perfect! I love the surface effect of the turret! Top notch all the way!

Cheers,
Eric.

Yowza! Yowza! You'd better be TOTM bound: that's a winner! May I--fully appreciating the excellence of your model--suggest a crew? There are painted and unpainted ones at https://heng-long-panzer.de/de/1-16-militaerfiguren/ and an excited commander at https://dgsselkirk.wixsite.com/dgsmilit ... mm-figures. There are many more worth considering. Your T34/85 would be a fantastic ride for them.

Thanks very much Herr Dr. and EAO, I really do appreciate your comments. I do wish I could have given a much more detailed build thread, however it was not to be this time round.
I must admit I tend to avoid crew figures because, if I'm honest, I've not been very good at all at painting them - I know I should work on it as it does bring our creations more to life though. I have a few painted figures already but no Russian crew unfortunately so I'll take a look as you suggest (or maybe try to get better at painting them ).

I love seeing the fantastic work created in the TOTM competition. The standard is so very high, with so many skilled builders/modellers among our ranks. I know some of my work would not be entirely out of place but I just have never been one to put myself forward, so to speak - perhaps I will though in the near future. Regardless, thanks again for kind appraisal.

Ohh woow , sweet tidy work on the inside and the paint and weatjering is

wow absolutely a fantastic build!

you did very well, the model looks very realistic, the colors and effects, the structure of the coarse cast steel .. very nice work

Dr. Phibes, I enjoy painting figures—but I am hardly good at it. One trick I use is simple: I spray a clear lacquer or acrylic on a painted figure (painted by me or one I bought already painted). Then when the clear coat is dry, I gently brush on a thinned coat of raw umber, burnt umber, raw sienna, or burnt sienna oil paint. Before the oil dries, I rub most of it off with a soft rag and or a cotton swab. This is weathering for idiots—just my speed.
You could try this first on one of the ghastly HengLong or Taigen Panzer Commanders. That way, nothing is at stake but the low cost of the oil paint and thinner.

What a fantastic result Dr P , a true representation of a utilitarian weapon of the Proletariat!
You sure did get the 4BO method right which is harder than it looks

An enviable result, Doctor! The textures, the colours, the dust and mud; it's all spot-on. It One to be proud of, for sure.

I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the AK cast texture product you used. I've used Tamiya putty for steel textures before, and it doesn't adhere to metal well at all (unsurprisingly). Did you prime or otherwise prepare the metal turret for the texture? Do you think it'll hold up long term?