Jagdpanther HL with Tamiya upgrade

[vonrundstedt]

Looking realy good looking forward to seeing it finished

[xrad]

Thanks!

No advantage, just look cool inside the tank....and may help with 'scale weight' support..

Also, I am considering adding some lead weight to hull to give it a more scale weight...

scale length = proportional
scale area = squared
scale weight = cubed

So that ~100,000 1:1 weight  would equal about 1/4096 scale weight at 1/16 scale.  So about 24lbs...I will probably shoot for about 18lbs.

That is pretty heavy...might have to rienforce the hull!  I am also working on a cheaper version of the 3:1 gear reduction (see pic) for tammy gearbox.  Parts cost about 8$ each side. Just have to turn down a 4mm shaft to 3mm....

[raven]

your jp is looking in great shape must be costing a fortune

    chris

[xrad]

well....

HL w/ metal tracks 160
prop smoker 15
tammy motors 70
metal wheels 140
tammy hull 25
tammy arms/ rear hull/ suspension pieces 40
Impact torsion arms 80
upgrade idler/driver 45
3600ma batt:  25
metal driver cover upgrade 20
allen screws all around: 50 (bought at local store..not in bulk!  )

total at least: 670$  but that is not too bad considering my target was to stay below a full optioned Tammy JP and radio system...

AND, i got to build it myself....

[tankmad]

Nice work on the jp 
Stevie

[xrad]

Thanks Stevie!

Here is the latest.  Trying to avoid 100+$ for set of 3:1 drive motor upgrades..

I made my own.

Required:
2 x Great planes BB 3:1 prop reduction
2 x Novak Mongoose 0.6 1/8th pinions (11, 12, 13 tooth)
Some drillbits   and 3mm tap


Great Planes 3:1 comes with pinion, but not needed. The Tammy motor fits right in place and the teeth mesh very well (better than tammy pinion to Tammy first gear!)

Next, you have to put in the Tammy motor and run the the output shaft against a flat file until it is ground down to 1/8th inch. Go slowly and do an even job.  The 11tooth Novak pinion will slip on when the shaft is the right size. You don;t have to take much off!

Then, I had to take two of the bevel head screws out of the 3:1 and reverse their position to the other side so that the unit will fit flush against the tammy. ALSO, I had to cut out a bit of the lower edge of the 3:1 to fit an E-clip and shaft on the Tammy.

Next, position the 3:1 against the tammy gearbox and figure the best place so that everything fits. I used the rear Tammy gearbox screw hole to put a new longer screw in place AND tapped a new 3mm hole. these 2 screws hold the 3:1 in place.  These are the money holes so don;t mess up.

Nothing is final, just trying different positions and such. I bought a few spares in case of mess-ups.

Ran the gearbox with the tracks on. Definately much slower (by about 1/3) Much more power...

[xrad]

by the way, i put the upper hull in place and it fits without hitting the motor....just barely...

[xrad]

Started left side reduction. If you do this, best to buy three of everything..still costs less than ~30$

Left side motor 3:1 placed down low so no interference with other motor. Other motor sits a little proud of the lower muzzle shroud so that it has to be repositioned about 4mm lower. To allow for this movement, the left side 3:1 reducer is cut on the to and one of the cross support tubes is moved posteriorly about 8mm (see pics..comparison w/uncut 3:1 nearby)

3:1 also caregfully marked and drilled and tapped for 3mm screws(pic of hole marking and tapping) necessary screws countersunk(it pays to have three of the Great planes 3:1's beacuse then you have extra bevel screws(some wierd small size) and you have spar bearings and gears, etc...

Anyway, left side together perfectly and no noise. I used the Novak 13 tooth gear this time and it meshes even better.  Will have to get another 13 tooth for right side too.

Bough some ~32? pitch gears...no worky...

So best bet is to get
3 x 3:1 Great planes prop reducers
Novak 11 tooth 1/8 0.6 gears w/set screw

Pic shows how I ground the shaft very carefully to 1/8 inch using single file.  Few drops of oil on file keeps the metal dust from flying. Have to wipe clean the file often on a rag. I just direct connected the motor to 7.2 v pack so the shaft spins pretty fast. Takes about 5 minutes to carefully file down, all the time stopping the motor and test fitting the Novak pinion...Don;t mess this up and overgrind!!

[xrad]

Next: the barrel recoil and flash

Waiting on a new flash unit and HL recoil unit. Probably have to fab some stuff for this as the actually very awsome metal barrel and muzzle break is for the 6mmBB system, and not the recoil unit.

I am impressed with this metal barrel. It may not be absolutelu scale , but it is VERY industrial. Even the muzzle break is metal and screwed on. I have seen machined aluminum metal barrel for +90$ by themselves for the Tammy unit..

I will just have to rough it up a little and find a way to incorporate the recoil unit...

[xrad]

whoops...the muzzle break is plastic, but very well made.

Put in the Impact torsion rods. Steps:

1) using tammy torsion hull mounts, you just flex off the little metal squares without bending the mounts
2) enlarge holes for 3mm screws
3) replace all the 3mm bolts on the torsion rods with 3mm allen head screws of same length
4) replace the spring side allen head set screws with DuBro allen head screws (less likely to strip)
5) mount all the spring assemblies with the small set screws facing up and using the original lock washer...make them tight (see pics)
6) replace the torsion mounts into hull
7) set the torsion rods in place and put in the tammy torsion arms
  'clock' the position of the torsion arms as in my pic.  More spring for front, slightly less for rear. The impact torsion rods are less stiff than tammy bars, so you have to set them for a little more spring.
9) put on tracks for test fit with weighted chassis. remember, everything will eventually sag a little as track wear in, so a little bit extra tight is better. And make sure your track tensioner is set all the way to loose position.
10) few drops oil where torsion rods fit into springs

Note: I bought the tiger set of Impact torsion rods. I get two extra just in case, BUT, you have to trim about 3mm or so off the rod ends (the round end, not the filed end) because they are a little too long for JP