Mato Servo Nogo

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Last night, preparing to test voltage through the receiver, all seemed fine . So I put all the wiring back in place for one last simple check. The servo--everything--functioned just as it should. I tried the elevation servo several times after powering off and on, with sound on, etc. No problem. I conclude that the M10 is determined to make a fool of me, not much of a challenge .

OR there could be short in some wiring, causing the irregular behavior. I will keep testing and re-assemble, for if the problem is a short, it is likely to show up again.

Since there are plenty of online resources, I will also be learning what I can about the transmitter and MFU. Then, too, as I have all my vaccinations (and have some immunity gained the hard way six months ago), on Tuesday I will mask up to visit the closest hobby store--only 35 m/56 km away . The store has lots of RC equipment, so I can see what I can learn and pick up some goodies for safely charging LiPo batteries.

Thank you all for your patient help. I will continue to learn, but the M10 is looking better for now .

[abramsky]

Great news!
Perhaps your Clark MFU needed a bit of attention and maintenance Sometimes it is enough to disconnect the power supply and all wirings and reinstall step by step. Such a reset helped me a few times with Heng Long MFU. It is enough that one of the cables is loose or damaged (e.g. broken) or one of the connectors may be loose (loose solder etc.) or slightly corroded and not conductive. And we have a problem. Troubleshooting is a process that requires systematic and meticulous ( step by step ) checking of each of the failure modules and their connections with the rest of the system until we locate the defect. A little knowledge of how and why it works won't hurt you
It's great that everything worked out, and the knowledge you get will stay with you
Good luck

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Indeed, I always check connections first thing, before even charging and installing the battery. In this case, all seemed fine, so then I tried the M10 with a fully-charged battery. Everything worked for three days. Then—inexplicably—the elevation servo stopped. That is when I first started serious checking and careful disassembly.

So that’s all days ago. Now the latest.

Last night after the elevation servo worked repeatedly without load, I reassembled the M10. You guessed it: the elevation servo started running and jammed.

That’s it for me. I am planning a rebuild. I will let you all know what I do when I decide. I have a few options, ranging from a new servo through a redesign of the servo location and mechanics, to a non-operating gun elevation with more room for detail in the open turret, to a complete change out of mechanicals and electronics. I will take my time to decide. I have plenty of fun projects and an M10 that works in other ways. For the moment, I am content to consider the options.

[Jofaur86]

as I understand it, the servo alone is working perfectly? but in charge no, so something mechanical strength? sorry to insist on using Lipo? Personally, I would try it with a well loaded NImh,
repeat, but it is not because a battery has a good voltage at the end of the charge (volts) that it has the right capacity (Amperes Hours) it is only my personal opinion

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Actually, Jofaur, the servo does not always function correctly without any load. Although it seems to be that a load on the servo starts the malfunctioning, the malfunction then continues for an indeterminable time whether under load or not. Here is what I have tentatively concluded:

1) The servo itself is defective. OR
2) The angle of the servo in relation to the load is overloading the servo.

Here is the angle of the servo as Mato has it mounted, all in a relatively straight horizontal path so the servo is, in effect, slowly wagging the gun breech up and down like a child waving "bye-bye."

GUN BREECH-(pivot point)-wire link-(pivot point)-servo arm-SERVO ROTATION

I believe the design should be as follows:

GUN BREECH (pivot point)-
-wire link-
-(pivot point)-
-servo arm-
SERVO ROTATION

My way, the servo would be pumping the gun breech up and down, a mechanical design I see much more commonly (thanks to YouTube).

Regardless, I am considering various options as I noted above after "That's it for me." There are so many interesting possibilities, and I like them all, so I just have to decide.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

As if my FAMO build is not challenging enough ( ) I have decided I can stand it no longer and am also starting to simultaneously work to revive my Mato M10. So I am reviving this thread a bit.
Here's an update:

1) The M10 tracks are still a touch balky, but have noticeably improved after I have adjusted, fiddled, refit, etc., for three years.
2) The original recoil servo was shot (bad pun) and would not even function when I check it with the handy-dandy servo tester out of the turret and under no load.
3) What is more, the slip ring that came with the M10 seems to have been defective by a wire broken in an inaccessible spot. It simply never would pass a signal to the servos. I don't particularly care, anyway, as turning the turret around completely backward is no big deal to me, not worth the extra money.
4) I have a newly refitted turret. It works well with the rotation ring, and I have aligned new servos correctly and re-formed the connectors. I have repeatedly tested the new servos with the handy-dandy servo tester: both the recoil and gun elevation servos work fine; ready to go. However, (unsurprisingly) connected directly to the receiver in the M10, the recoil and elevation servos do nothing. So...

My question: Where do I hook up the new recoil and gun elevation servos the Clark board? At present the servos have the usual flat connectors as shown here immediately below, but I think the connectors need to be changed to two prong JST.

M10 Recoil and Elevation.jpg (233.53 KiB) Viewed 2075 times

I think the connectors have to be switched (easy enough) to connect to the Clark board. Is that right? If so, to where on the Clark board? My guess is that they go where the yellow and red banded JSX connectors show up in this photo. Is that correct?

M10 Clark Board 02.jpg (280.26 KiB) Viewed 2075 times

[Model Builder 4]

At the bottom right of your picture professor just under where the yellow zip tie is are the servo connector pins, there's no need to change connectors, the servo recoil plugs into the first 3pins inner most of the board top to bottom ( not across ways) the elevation goes in the middle of the row of the three, make sure you plug your servo connectors in the right way, the signal is the top pin, the live is the middle and negative is the bottom pin, hope this helps

Cheers,Lee.

Ps. the connector with the red zip tie is J3 and is the port for your barrel flash led. The yellow zip tie connector is J1 and for the IR emitter.

[Model Builder 4]

Check on the picture bottom right and you'll see where the servos plug into

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Lee Model Builder 4 Thank you so much! So those are for direct connection to the servos! I was hoping so, but the original Mato M10’s board was connected differently. I was unable to believe it would be so easy. If this works, I can breeze on to removing tools, priming, and painting.
Ed

[Jofaur86]

great? but I seem to remember? whether it is necessary to program (such as Sony) the elevation output? of memory?
Personally I had to do it for a TK 24? ?