RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Model Builder 4 wrote:Very nice Rob you must have been extremely good this year to receive such great presents

Cheers, Lee.

Maybe Lee.....maybe....

Tonight I wanted to charge both batteries, so I could make a test ride tomorrow morning.
F*ck.....in the box from the F type, no charger.
Yesterday afternoon I only un-boxed both tanks, to check them out, and did not look any further if the box was complete.
I bought both Panthers from Dominique at RCTank.de, so I emaild him about it.
I felt a bit stupid, telling him the day after the delivery that one loader is missing....damn.
On here he often is mentioned as a good vendor, so maybe he will send me another charger.
To check if everything was working on both Panthers, I took the Tiger's battery pack and put it from Panther to Panther.
Fortunately everything on the newbies just worked fine.
To be continued guys....

I just ordered this decal set for my Panther-G.
Also another a 2m antenna with a FUG8 star to complete it as a Stab Company tank

Due to holidays from the German antenna supplier, my stuff will come in somewhere half of August.
So I just have to be a little patient.

A few minutes ago I received an email from Dominique (RCTank.de)
He felt sorry the charger was not in the box, and a new one will be shipped later today.
What a great guy, I can highly recommend him and his site.
Because I did not notice the missing charger at first, found out a day later, he could have said it was my fault and I should have checked it from day 1.
Nothing about that, just sends a new one.
Just GREAT.

I too used plasticity which is easy to cut and add the small fixings. To the back of the card l glued small brass plates and to those l soldered thin brass tube. I then drill 3 small holes into the hull just below the edge of the hull wheel cover plate (sorry, don't know the correct term) and glues into the holes short tubes to take the rods.

In this way you can run the Panther without the side plates with no visible fixing plates or by simply sliding the plate's rods into the tubes, you can run with the plates. Well, it works for me - and if preferred you could use the same method but use aluminium or brass.

Btw, both tracks look pretty good to me, not too tight for a just out of the factory or too slack for a low mileage job!

And with plates fitted, you can't see the top run of the track anyway!

The first shot shows one of the mounting plates in position, the rod just slid into the tube, and the second shot shows the finished set in position. You really need to make the separate plates, either by fabricating the separately or by scoring the platicard and then add the tiny fixing buckles. Also, be aware that the number, and therefore the lengths of the individual plates varied over time.

That new model F looks great by the way. Must add it to my Xmas list - note to Dave at Forgebear, Don't let that IS-2 slip any futher or my Xmas list will be full already

Sent from my ASUS_T00G using Tapatalk

General Jumbo01 wrote:And with plates fitted, you can't see the top run of the track anyway!

Yes that is correct

Thanks General for the info and pics.
At work looking at it on my phone.
Will check on it all back home on the pc.
Maybe I will contact you again about the Schürzen, if it is okay with you.
Must re-read it some more times to understand what exactly you did.