RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Posted: **Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:41 am**

I do like the detail of the smoke dischargers, it's nice to see people pay attention to the small details ( I must admit, I don't fill or wire up the smoke dischargers on my Tanks}

Posted: **Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:33 am**

Great tip on the smoke canisters................I wired mine up, but left them empty.
Best thing about a white-wash cover is it can be as distressed as you like- and it still looks 'right'
The hairspray thing also adds a certain 'allure' to the project.................smells like the Mrs getting ready for a big night out but looks like a blunt force trauma weapon

Keep the updates coming Mr A.3.5

Posted: **Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:53 pm**

Thank you for the comments

A little bit more of work done on the front glacis by painting some more bare metal chips.

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Posted: **Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:27 pm**

Some more work done on the hull as well as the engine deck:

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Posted: **Sun Jan 28, 2018 7:44 pm**

Alfa Three Five wrote:
Burger_Patrol1 wrote:Nice job on the on the winter camo....Looking Good What method are you using for the weathering of the winter camo?
Hi, thanks for your comment.

First I get the tank the "original" camo, once dry (at least 24h) I sprayed 2 layers of satin varnish in order to protect the paint from the hairspray (some can be too strong and damage the paint) You can use also chipping fluids that you apply with an air brush. I prefer the hairspray as I'm old school but also a big can cost me about £1.5 only.

Once it is fully dried, I used hairspray followed by a coat of tamiya white. I did a kind of mapping with some areas with less paint. The tamiya is a good paint for the scratches or chips, I don't recommand you the Vallejo acrylics due to the composition they are more "flexible" meaning it will be harder to get the small chips or wear effects.

Tamiya paint like acrylics are very quick to dry that's why I m working by areas and I m not covering the entire model at once.

So once dry, I'm using a flat brush and tap water. The brush must be barely wet. With it I m passing on the areas where I want to get my chips. With vertical movements from top to bottom on the sides or inclines areas like the top of the turret or with circular movements like on the cupola. The same circular movements on the most used areas like on top where the crews are passing or climbing.

Depending on the effect you want to achive, from less chips to an almost "washed" aspect you will use less or more water. More water or more movements you are doing more paint will be removed.

If you want I can make a quick tutorial about it too.

You obviously have a thorough understanding of paint chemistry and, more importantly, put it to good use.

As a relative novice in Tank daubing, I appreciate your detailed description of the methods and materials you use.
I can use an airbrush, and a rattle, can without producing runs and dribbles (I'm not quite that age yet

)...but a real beginner when it comes to adding authentic looking weathering.