RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Other possibility might be to use a hair drier to gently heat the housing - less chance of doing damage with excess heat?
Alwyn

Probably not enough direct heat - boiling water shouldn't do any damage. The oven is usually reserved for big bits of metal and when SWMBO isn't around....

wibblywobbly wrote:Well you are a dark horse sneaking this one in under the radar. That's a very challenging build that you have there, shame that they don't prepare all of the parts before despatch so that you don't find out something doesn't fit until after it breaks etc.

We can sort out elevation and recoil, shouldn't be a problem of insurmountable proportions.

I wanted to challenge myself and at the same time wanted something a bit different. I think I have succeeded on both counts. I realize scratch building is beyond my capabilities but hope by the time I have finished this, I will have more confidence in tackling other tasks.

RobW wrote:Probably not enough direct heat - boiling water shouldn't do any damage. The oven is usually reserved for big bits of metal and when SWMBO isn't around....

I have a small blowtorch, but I guess that's probably too extreme.

S.S.1947,
A butane torch with the 'blow hot air' tip on it will do the trick. Good luck, following along because I know you will get this stuff sorted and have a totally cool piece of Armor once you are done ( are we ever really done on these things? )
regards,
Painless

The bearings spent the night in the freezer and with a little bit of heat from the blow torch on the hub, they went into place with only minor persuasion. I now have this.I managed to get the recalcitrant universal joint to move freely, so all is in order, apart form having to dismantle the first side so I can replace the plastic bearings.

This stage has been the trickiest one so far. I think that things are gradually getting harder. The next major stage is fitting and connecting all the steering gear. With 8 arms to fit, it should prove interesting. According to the instructions, they have to be a very precise length down to 0.1 of a mm.

Hi Richard, looking great so far, well done with the bearings. The limited tolerance on the steering sounds a little strange, that would mean that all your other tolerances on the mountings/swing arms/wheel axles etc would also have to be 0.1 mm? It never hurts to be precise on these things but it does sound a bit odd.

Anyway it looks really interesting so I'll be following along (even while drinking San Miguel and admiring the beach bods - female of course but don't tell HWMBO!).

Alwyn

I now have a fully ball bearinged chassis, complete with coil spring suspension. Up to now, I have had some niggles with things which did not fit as I think they should have done. I now have a real complaint. The steering mechanism uses 24 of these. Not a problem you might think. However, on reading the instructions I discover I have to cut 18 of them down, removing the nut shaped ends. I realise that it is cheaper for the manufacturer to produce them all the same and leave the purchaser to do the necessary, but when you consider the price of the kit, I really feel quite strongly that this spoils the ship for a ha'porth of tar.

Behold the chassis with all the running gear and steering assembly. With one exception, it proved a lot more straightforward than I had anticipated. The apparent precision on the length of the various link arms proved to be no problem. The ball end threaded onto rods and the lengths were the result of a precise number of turns. It is difficult to be certain without the wheels on, but looking at the alignment of the hubs, it is possible that some adjustment may be necessary.

The one problem is a huge inconsistency, or should I say impossibility in the instructions. The next to last linkage to be fitted is the cranked one that joins front and back. The instructions in one frame show it being fitted over the gear box housing. The next frame shows it under the housing. There is not enough room to fit it through, so I had to remove one ball end, thread it through the gap and refit it. This may be a problem as it is impossible to get my vernier calipers on it to check the measurement.

Good morning,
Excellent work done with odd instructions, Doc. Looking at the assembly with the Mark One eyeball, it all looks great except that one connector that you mentioned, the one running under the box. One of the screw on caps is at an angle on the leading side while the other is at 90 ( as it should be, I figure(?) Test as soon as possible to stop any binding on the box while under power and moving. Apologies if I am seeing a problem that isn't.
regards,
Painless