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maxmekker wrote:Holy smoke. this is so much fun to follow .

Good morning Stian,

many thanks and a happy new year to Norway. I'm proud that you're my follower.

Continuation from the door mounting…
The counterparts for my door tapes were also mounted, so that the door now only must stuck on these counterparts. A view from inside,…



…here the door from outside in closed state...



…and here a view in opened state.



And here a complete view in this state with annex at the main building mounted.



Thereafter I’ve tried once again a way through the barn with my Panther; for those little vehicles no problem. With wider vehicles like my Kingtiger is more precisely driving necessary.



The size ratio is here good to see.



At the way through were additionally stiffening’s glued,…



…without roof better to see. A total of three pieces were mounted.



At some points were additionally little three angle stiffening’s mounted – better safe than sorry.



Thereafter were the skeleton once preserved. Used was a mixture from linseed oil, pine wood tar and oil paint; the whole heavily thinned with balsam turpentine oil.



This thinned mixture pulls into the wood fast and deep; partly to the backside and due to the use of turpentine oil smelled it pleasant than usual at paintings.



Further in the next part…

You are a true craftsman in every sense of the word super job!

c.rainford73 wrote:You are a true craftsman in every sense of the word super job!

Many thanks Mr. c.rainford and...
...stay curious.

It goes on. My plan is the use of framework at the gable sides; the walls not plastered. At my building under construction I’ve bought bricks, but they were very expensive. For my barn I made-up another system…
From ceramic kneaded clay I’ve built my own bricks; they look not super fine but this is also not important – to that later.



After I’d manufactured enough bricks, were they thereafter in a box good dried.



To my made-up framework wall system; the wooden stripes are 10 mm thick, my bricks round about 5 mm thick. I’ve bought again Styrofoam plates; this time with 6 mm thickness.



The plates were matching cut and inside flush between the wooden stripes glued.



After my glue was dried I’ve began to glue the bricks into the frameworks. For that was a bit glue in the framework filled and the bricks were put in.





As glue for the Styrofoam plates and for the bricks I’ve used glue named Latex Binder; this glue stays elastic after drying and so it is possible to compensate movements of the wood parts.



The waste glue was with a wet cloth wiped away; but the glue become colourless after drying and so it is barely to see.
As next step after drying follows to grout the bricks with flexible grout mortar in grey.



It is very important to fill the grout good between the bricks, because also the grout mortar has a major role for the stability of this system.



Further soon...

With your own kiln dried bricks this build has entered a level that I and many others have never dared to venture absolutely incredible work

So great looking forward to the next update

you are bonkers !

must say as a former drystone dyker and brickie i would have pointed that brickwork ! shame to hide that great work !

A work of art Hotte.
Don't let the tanks shoot it up !

Many thanks guys!
So much work and then the brickwork hided? No no, stay cool; my brickwork is later again to see. This is first once a intermediate step; please stay curious and continue follow along.