RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

RobW wrote:That's a hell of a muzzle break! What's the weedy bit on the left?

Very impressive. Can you print onto a shaped base? Just thinking for concave objects like T34 wheels.

That's where the print orientation comes into play. The general rule is to print with the open side facing upwards. It saves on filament as it doesn't need any support to be laid down. If the wheels are concave both sides then split them in half, and print two halves that are then glued together.

Thanks both.

Alwyn - I was pulling your leg as the base you printed looks like an oversized muzzle brake!

Makes sense re the orientation (already suspected that), but hadn't realised the newer domestic printers could print a scaffold. Is that something the print software adds, or do you need to design that in?

Hi Rob, the slice/dice/print program - in my case CURA will create the appropriate scaffold if you ask nicely. I'm just printing the Nashorn curved screen and it's printing a very nice scaffold as the structure is massively concave.
Cheers
Alwyn

Here's some pics of the printer showing the scaffolding being printed to support the overhang as the print progresses.



The scaffolding is removed after printing.
Alwyn

Very nice. Is it faceting the curve or is it the light?

For info Hobby King are doing a sale offer on the feed line. No idea if it's any good or the right stuff, but could be worth looking. Think it's in the UK too.

Having experienced problems with drafts/temperature fluctuations affecting print quality I decided to build a cabinet for the printer, and thanks to Pete Wright who donated some surplus perspex, here it is.


Just waiting for some lcd light strip to arrive and then connect that and the extractor fan up, and as they say in Yorkshire 'job's a good un'

Alwyn

Hi Alwyn glad to have been of help, its why we have the club and forum. to help each other.

regards pete

Best of luck with curing any warping/lifting you are getting. The cause may not be drafts etc, it is a natural result of the filament cooling. It goes down hot and cools, and contracts, thus the faster cooling edges pull towards the middle. This pulls the base off the bed at the coolest point. You might improve things by enclosing the printer, but plenty of people with enclosed printers get the problem. A warm room also helps. I find I get better results in the winter when the doors and windows are closed and the temperature is a constant 18-20c.

If the enclosure doesn't work then try a Buildtak sheet, or any of the Heath Robinson solutions on the web. Your Z height also plays a part, the first layer needs to be pushed onto the bed rather than simply running a bead across it. Having dual fans, one on the nozzle and another on the part is also supposed to keep things in shape.

Some use hairspray, I use a Pritt stick. I have a glass bed so the Pritt stick has a totally smooth surface to bond to. I have a Buildtak sheet on the way, so once my printer is up and running again I'll be able to test it, it gets excellent reviews, and can be reused a lot, if it is a total cure for lifting then it will have been worth it especially for larger parts.

Just followed your 3d journey though, Alwyn. This will prove to be a seminal reference thread for future forum members taking the 3d printer plunge.
One question: can it print a bottle of 12-year old Jamesons?...or even a Prosecco?

Sadly not! I have to rely on the domestic management to keep the fridge topped up for refuelling stops, but fortunately I have a thoroughly efficient support team who seem to anticipate those moments of extreme thirst and supply the necessary remedy!

Cheers.... Hic...

Alwyn