RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Love the mantlet mate................The rear deck detail you have added certainly will show once its finished.
Mine was a bit under done in that respect.
The project I want to do after a Fehrmann Tiger 05 is a 1946 "what-if" Jagdpanther with all steel wheels and a 105 or 128mm gun.
I assume being a late version, yours will have all the tools mounted on the rear plate ?
Can say it gets crowded back there !!
Nice work so far

Thx. Yes, i will try to place the tools on The back deck. ATM I am trying to do the spare track holders. After that it should be ready for the base coat.i will start with red brown rust protection. Also, I will get me the Tamiya 1/35 for Christmas, that is for training , before I completely mess up the big boy.

Thanks to all the great builds and resources on this side I added two tiny bits, that make the tank look much much better in the end. Pricepoint for both? Negligible

Now I have the spare track hangers in the making. Wasn´t able to bend them form 1mm brass. So I am doing them from 1mm styrene and sand them to shape, to look like bend bars of metal.

Good improvisation there using styrene for brass bolt heads. One of the numerous benefits of modelling, is developing 'lateral thinking' skills. Clearly, Soeren, you have sharpened yours.

Hi soeren I use copper wire for those hard to bend bits, I scavenge odd bits of copper cored cable from skips and strip it. I find its easier to use sometimes than brass, and cheaper when salvaged. Sometimes if you find a friendly electrician they will save and let you have short lengths of copper cored cable rather than throwing them in a bin.

Alwyn

Good evening,
The details are really coming along! The brass adds a solid feel I bet.
regards,
Painless

43rdRecceReg wrote:Good improvisation there using styrene for brass bolt heads. One of the numerous benefits of modelling, is developing 'lateral thinking' skills. Clearly, Soeren, you have sharpened yours.

Well, I actually used brass bolt heads for the bolt heads. It will be styrene for the hangers. But retaining rods and chains will be brass age in. But I couldn't bend the 2.5x1.0 mm brass to even brackets, even after heating the brass. So I went with styrene bars and cut 6mm long pieces for the brackets, 3per hanger, glued those together and sanded the corners to give it the rounded shape of bend metal bars. The Taigen metal track links have a snug fit.

AlwynTurner wrote:Hi soeren I use copper wire for those hard to bend bits, I scavenge odd bits of copper cored cable from skips and strip it. I find its easier to use sometimes than brass, and cheaper when salvaged. Sometimes if you find a friendly electrician they will save and let you have short lengths of copper cored cable rather than throwing them in a bin.

Alwyn

Good idea, you mean especially for the headlight cable? I already saved some copper from letter clips and an old speaker cable. It's about correctly sized for using on the aver steel cable set, where they give less copper wire than would be needed according to their drawing. Also I can use it to fix the chains to the hull, like I saw you guys do it. Never would have thought of such technique myself. But as the previous post said "lateral thinking" skills are improved. I am happy to do a complete kit, like I will with my Christmas 1:35 JP painting practice tank, but also to add details like you guys have shown me to.

Soeren wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:Good improvisation there using styrene for brass bolt heads. One of the numerous benefits of modelling, is developing 'lateral thinking' skills. Clearly, Soeren, you have sharpened yours.

Well, I actually used brass bolt heads for the bolt heads. It will be styrene for the hangers. But retaining rods and chains will be brass age in. But I couldn't bend the 2.5x1.0 mm brass to even brackets, even after heating the brass. So I went with styrene bars and cut 6mm long pieces for the brackets, 3per hanger, glued those together and sanded the corners to give it the rounded shape of bend metal bars. The Taigen metal track links have a snug fit.

Yes I feel your pain mate. I made my set of Panther track hangers, before I discovered solder paste and they were a tough gig
Now, I would bend them the same way but use the solder paste to secure them to the rail.
I used a set of needle point pliers and slid the brass down the jaws until I reached the desired width, then used another pair to fold the sides over to make the 'C' shape.
Never again if I can avoid it

I couldnt wait any longer and gave it a thin coat of rust protection paint... The details blend in nicely...
Next will be all the retaining pins with chains. I think I will do the tools after the final painting before weathering.
But I see, at the Roof, I have to fill the previous vent position better.