RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thi time the tank i the right way up. Pictured straight out of the box. The bags of bits. and all the individual sprues. Intriguing with all the different coloured plastics in the mould. Interestingly, the sprues with the hub caps have two of them silvered. My initial thought was that you were not intended to paint the sprocket and idlers, but then you would have had 4 not 2. I now need to find some colour photos of a real T 90.

A revision to my post above. It turns out it is not different coloured plastic. The sprues have been pre-painted. The underlying plastic is a rather lurid green. Having just assembled one of the fuel tanks, I find the different colours do not quite line up. Also, despite being very careful cutting the part off the sprue, I have very small green patches which will need painting. If anyone can suggest suitable colours, preferably Vallejo, I shals e grateful.

I don't know what colours HL use (they're never accurate) but for green-

VAL78408 - Vallejo Armour Set - AFV Modern Russian Green
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/171215520587

If you want camo-

http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/pr ... -Series%29

silversurfer1947 wrote:Thanks Rob. Now the question is do I stick all the bits on first and then take the tracks off or vice versa? And more importantly, can I get it all done before Sept 25?

Seeing as the only complication is taking the upper hull off, the sticking point is whether the screws that release the upper hull are hidden behind the tracks, which means that you would have to knock a pin out anyway. I use an old pointed needle file to get track pins out, they sometimes just push out, other times a gentle tap with a hammer is required. They usually push out by applying pressure on the inside edge, as the knurled end is on the outside.

I've just had a go at the tracks. I used a spare Tamiya track pin, and a few gentle taps from a pair of pliers and lo and behold, the pin came out. In this case, the knurled end was on the inside. Thanks for everyone's help.

wibblywobbly wrote: ....Seeing as the only complication is taking the upper hull off, the sticking point is whether the screws that release the upper hull are hidden behind the tracks, which means that you would have to knock a pin out anyway....

Just 6 screws on the bottom. I've not taken it apart yet but it looks like there's no hull above the tracks just track guards (Like the T34).

I think HL's newest Tigers just have 6 screws in the hull so you no longer need to take the tracks off.

Well whilst chatting to another BAD member today, and he tells me that he has ordered one, I clicked the button while I was on the phone. I blame you for the rapid depletion of my Paypal account, though I have ordered the basic version.

My mad plan is two fold. I can nick the Tiger 1 electrics out of it and install them into the Tiger 131 I have done. Free Tiger 1 sounds!

I can then wait till Elmod do T90 sounds and swap the boards between the Panther and the T90. Free T90 sounds!

Failing that Clark now does a TK24 for the T90, so either way, it won't cost the earth.

I have to say, it struck me as slightly odd that you either sound like a Tiger or a Leopard. It's very handy though, when you have yours, as presumably you will be converting for IR battling, so it will be easy to do a second'

Bearing in mind there aren't many of us BAD members, it looks like we could start our own cold war soon.

Having experienced the scout hut whilst waiting for the heating to do its job...you may not be far wrong.

Mine will get the battle scarred treatment, and at this moment in time it looks like it will be a winter project. I will know tomorrow whether I am going to be taking up residence in Castle Cary, so I will have to desist from spraying paint etc in my current spare room...

One interesting discovery is that nearly all the add-on bits are push fits. Minimal glueing, and they fit pretty well.