RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Be very careful with unknown clear matte. The best thing is to make a test piece and try it there first. I've had some of the brands react very strangely, ruining a good paint job, so now i stick to model master (from Testors) Dulcote. A bit more expensive than the bulk cans, but the peace of mind is priceless. Knowing it's not going to craze or lift on me makes it well worth the extra dough.

If you're going to use Kaiser's Boyle matte, make sure to ask him what kind of paint he's used it over (acrylic, enamel, different brands) and make sure it will be compatible with the paint you use. Again, a test piece is mandatory. Just shoot a bit of the same paint as what's on the tank on a sheet of styrene, wait for it to cure, and try the clear to see how it works. Much better to spend a bit on a test sheet than to ruin a great paint job due to incompatible flat coat. Can ya dig it?

As for weathering, I say drive it after flat coat for a couple weeks and you'll be surprised how much natural weathering you get, making it easier to see what needs to be added, and like they say, when it comes to weathering, less is more. Maybe try Promodeller Wash, as it will wash completely off if you don't like it the first time. The most common mistake I see in this hobby is over weathering of a tank. These things were very well maintained, and shouldn't look like they've been sitting in a field for 50 years.

Again, great work, very impressive.

Max-U52 wrote:Be very careful with unknown clear matte. The best thing is to make a test piece and try it there first. I've had some of the brands react very strangely, ruining a good paint job, so now i stick to model master (from Testors) Dulcote. A bit more expensive than the bulk cans, but the peace of mind is priceless. Knowing it's not going to craze or lift on me makes it well worth the extra dough.

If you're going to use Kaiser's Boyle matte, make sure to ask him what kind of paint he's used it over (acrylic, enamel, different brands) and make sure it will be compatible with the paint you use. Again, a test piece is mandatory. Just shoot a bit of the same paint as what's on the tank on a sheet of styrene, wait for it to cure, and try the clear to see how it works. Much better to spend a bit on a test sheet than to ruin a great paint job due to incompatible flat coat. Can ya dig it?

As for weathering, I say drive it after flat coat for a couple weeks and you'll be surprised how much natural weathering you get, making it easier to see what needs to be added, and like they say, when it comes to weathering, less is more. Maybe try Promodeller Wash, as it will wash completely off if you don't like it the first time. The most common mistake I see in this hobby is over weathering of a tank. These things were very well maintained, and shouldn't look like they've been sitting in a field for 50 years.

Again, great work, very impressive.

Thank you very much for the advice and the kind comments that give me the confidence to continue. Loving the hobby and the total stress relief it brings.


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wibblywobbly wrote:The trick with acrylic washes is to get some water on a clean brush and soak the area you are working on, then dip a separate brush into the wash colour and dab the wet surface. It will then flow over the surface and into the recesses, welds etc.

It works like a charm and you use a lot less of the wash colour.

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Great tip, thank you


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