Preferred paints

[Max-U52]

Personally I've always used Testors Model Master enamels, and I've used them for about 45 years now. However, whatever brand you like, you have to remember that not all brands carry all colors so a lot of times it's very, very helpful to be able to cross reference from brand to brand and the best chart I've found for that is here

http://www.paint4models.com

Just launch the program, don't download it and you can drag the columns to where you need them to get side by side comparisons. For example, these Dragon Warrior figure kits have colors called out for Mr. Color so I'll find the colors under the Mr. Color number and since I have the Testors column right beside it I can instantly see what color I need in Testors to match the colors given in Mr. Color. This is by far the best and easiest to use color cross reference chart I've found to date.

[ALPHA]

Personally I've always used Testors Model Master enamels, and I've used them for about 45 years now. However, whatever brand you like, you have to remember that not all brands carry all colors so a lot of times it's very, very helpful to be able to cross reference from brand to brand and the best chart I've found for that is here

http://www.paint4models.com

Just launch the program, don't download it and you can drag the columns to where you need them to get side by side comparisons. For example, these Dragon Warrior figure kits have colors called out for Mr. Color so I'll find the colors under the Mr. Color number and since I have the Testors column right beside it I can instantly see what color I need in Testors to match the colors given in Mr. Color. This is by far the best and easiest to use color cross reference chart I've found to date.

Color Charting is great...all good painters use them...even in the automotive industry...as yes...there are several manufacturers of paint...but all do not match perfectly to factory specs

I also believe before painting...you are well rested...well fed...and make sure the mind is free of distraction

Thanks for Sharing Max

ALPHA

[Max-U52]

This chart really isn't for color matching, but more for cross referencing between brands. The color wars have been going on for years, and trying to get an exact match for some of this stuff is pretty complicated, so I'm a firm believer in the "Close enough for the Girls we go out with" school of thought. So many different factors affect the way paint fades that it's darn near impossible to get 100% correct color matches, and that's why I tend to stick with the established brands. I usually use Testors, but I also have Tamiya, Floquil and quite a bit of Humbrol on the bench.

[ALPHA]

This chart really isn't for color matching, but more for cross referencing between brands. The color wars have been going on for years, and trying to get an exact match for some of this stuff is pretty complicated, so I'm a firm believer in the "Close enough for the Girls we go out with" school of thought. So many different factors affect the way paint fades that it's darn near impossible to get 100% correct color matches, and that's why I tend to stick with the established brands. I usually use Testors, but I also have Tamiya, Floquil and quite a bit of Humbrol on the bench.

I would agree....the Factory colors for tanks would be a "Close Match" if anything ...don't think there are any "true" color swatches for them now...I would imaging that's the reason companies have different interpretations of the color...I used to use testors a lot...really like their olive drab and flat brown...they were different than any other company...I think at some point they merged with Pactra...and now those two shades are history...as they have opted to go with Pactra's formula which is a tad darker ....Stopped using them because stores stopped bringing in the reducer for them....and the one shop that does stock it wants an arm and a leg for it
I use Artists paints now...Acrylic...so reduction isn't a problem...I generally mix my own colors...so use a color swatch system on occasion ...it's a great idea ...glad you brought it up

Also agree that there are many factors that affect the color....the one thing I notice is that everyone base coats with red oxide...that will affect how the final coat will appear as well...base coats are important...as most color swatches are done on white....when I used to paint cars in the real world...one lesson we all practiced was to use a "color card" for touch ups....I was basically a scrap piece of sheet metal...we would base it using different colors so we could get a match ...Now you would never use that as we did back then....but it isn't a bad idea when you want to achieve a certain color using the paints you have on hand


ALPHA

[43rdRecceReg]

I'd forgotten references to Mig Jimenez..the Julio Yglesias, or maybe Maharishi Mahesh Yogi guru of paints and modelling, until I needed SCC15- Olive Drab for my Cromwell. Mig's outlet in Spain is the only source, or wellspring it would seem, of this precious British tank daub.. with a 1944-45 vintage. Talk about mixing metaphors, as well as paints, eh? Interesting online shop too...
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/
Anyway, I've ordered four 17mil bottles. That should sort the Cromwell out, as well as the Firefly..and future Brit armour.
Anybody here use Ammo Mig Jimenez acrylics?
Doesn't much matter, as this was also an opportunity to revive this crazy thread, if only to witness the Giffy antics of the late lamented 'General'.. (not really 'late', but not longer here )

[Max-U52]

Double edged sword here, Roy. Good info, but makes me sad because I really miss Alpha.

[43rdRecceReg]

Double edged sword here, Roy. Good info, but makes me sad because I really miss Alpha.

I get mail from him now and then. He's busy building 1/35 models mostly, and he also keeps in touch with Painless too, I understand..
Good to see you're still around, Gary, even after you lost your wonderful woodland Tank Park... The new mancave has plenty of Tank potential, though, eh?

[Spam In A Can 26]

Just about anything but Testors.
I've never got good results with it & time hasn't changed that.
For some reason I never ever get good pigment, or matting additive flow with them no matter how much I stir/agitate or how I apply it, or prepare the surface.
This is about typical, its 2 coats brushed on. The surface was degreased & primed first.

The yellow drum tops & brown pallet are pretty typical. Ignore the "oily dirt" on the crates, that's dry brushed & intentional.

[[ICE]monkey]

i like Vallejo and use them for nearly all my modeling but like lifecolor for the German RAL colours

[43rdRecceReg]

Up until now, I've also been happy using Vallejo colours. In general, the paints are easy to apply and do an excellent job; although I've found that their dunkelgelb primer has poor adhesive properties- and I'm not the only one who thinks that. I use Humbrol (rattle can) grey primer for plastic and aluminium (asiatam chassis is an example). It doesn't peel or scratch easily like the Vallejo
But now, of course, I'm breaking my own mould and going to try Ammo Mig's highly rated (by Mig ) products!