Re: el-mod not responding ?

[ICE]monkey · Post by **[ICE]monkey** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 3:57 pm

looking at your second picture ,you have only two leads comming from the tls, so its a four channel set up as stated so the tank ignition isnt on channel 5 or 6 , its on the left stick

Post by **Matdragon** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:08 pm

wibblywobbly wrote: Ok, you say you are working on a 6 channel set up? First of all set it up as a 4 channel. It will be a miracle if you ever get the switches to work, there is more to that than Elmod let on.

erm as icemonkey said ive only got the prop 4 chip...

wibblywobbly wrote: If you haven't got the sound card, it won't make the job easy as you will have to wait 10 seconds for the silent ignition to start the tank. The best bet is to junk the HL battery, mine was next to useless. You will at least have a fighting chance with a fully charged 4800 one. Its amazing how the time flies when attempting to problem solve and they drain down without you realising it.

ok, ive plugged in two 4800 batteries.

wibblywobbly wrote: Double check that you have the 8 pin plug in the right way around, there are two slots in it and they must face inwards. If you have plugged it in the wrong way around there is an outside chance that you have blown an onboard fuse that looks after that socket. It's about 1mm square and only Elmod can replace it (unless you are a soldering guru, in which case they will post you one). If you have blown that fuse you can spend the next millenium trying to get the thing working and nothing will happen. The 8 pin circuit controls everything apart from the motors.

are you talking about the 8 pin plug on the TLS ? i dont see one on the booster ...

wibblywobbly wrote: So...make the first test the one to get the motors working.

still cant get it to fire up

wibblywobbly wrote: Do they run if you pull the jumper specified in the Elmod instructions. You need to disconnect everything from the Thinktank board except the motor wires, and the wiring (you did include the 20amp fuse?) from the battery and switch.

i dont have the el-mod instructions, i bought the booster as a hl one, but replaced the chip, could you please let me know how to do this ? thanks. and i dont have a 20 amp fuse i dont think ... should i ?

wibblywobbly wrote: Switch the tank on, and pull the jumper. The motors should run. (Make sure the hull is jacked up when you do this!).

ill definitely jack the tank up thanks, stop it running off lol!

wibblywobbly wrote: If the motors do not run then there is a problem with the board.
If they run in opposite directions, switch the wires over where they connect to the board on one motor so that they both run forwards.
If all is well, then switch the tank off and replace the jumper.
Then..start the 'Find a channel' process again.

but i dont know which control on the remote powers which servo port think on the receiver ... ill take a look through the instructions!

wibblywobbly wrote: To be continued...this is so much fun, I know I went through this when I installed mine!

Rob G

thanks for all your help so far guys!

Post by **Matdragon** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:09 pm

[ICE]monkey wrote: looking at your second picture ,you have only two leads comming from the tls, so its a four channel set up as stated so the tank ignition isnt on channel 5 or 6 , its on the left stick

ok thanks mate ill give it a go, but which way do i push the stick ?

cheers,

Matt

[ICE]monkey · Post by **[ICE]monkey** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:40 pm

its either top left diag or top right diag cant remember of hand, you can download elmod instructions of there site or phil,aka blitz has them

Post by **Matdragon** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:06 pm

hey thanks,

my problem may be something do with the power ?

the el-mod instructions say that (on the TLS) you should power on the controller, then power on the tank, and 2 red LEDs should come on. i only get 1 ...

thanks,

Mayt

tiger205 · Post by **tiger205** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:33 pm

matt is it worth emailing thomas at elmod telling him what problems youre haveing?, he should be able to help. i bet its something really simple to fix, also worth a thought, have you tried powering up the booster on its own?, if nothing else it would help narrow down where the problem is

Tony

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:41 pm

Forget all about asking Thomas for help with tx's...he is a legend for not giving any! lol

The manuals are here:
http://www.el-mod.de/manuals.php?osCsid ... 2873ed0641
If your manual isn't listed then email Thomas and he will email you one. Tell him which version and which boards you have. They are not all listed on the Elmod site.

Mat - The problem lies with the way that you have set the board up. Reading from above, you have a 4 channel set up. That means everything runs off the two sticks. Ignore any other switches and buttons.

The right stick only controls the motors.
The left stick controls the turret, lights, machine gun. Plus ignition.

You need to do the jumper test before anything else (assuming that your board has them).
Do not connect the receiver box to the board in any way.
Do not connect the turret plug.
Just connect the motor leads to the board.
Then connect the battery. The negative goes to the switch and then to the board negative. The positive goes to the switch, then a 20amp fuse, then to the board positive.
Switch on and nothing will happen. This is correct.
Remove the sixth jumper as shown in the manual (Mine is the sixth - yours may be different - thats why you need the manual).
The motors will now start.
If they are running in the right direction (eg to propel the tank forwards) then switch off, remove the battery, replace the jumper.
If they are not running in the right direction then simply swap the wires over on that motor where they attach to the board.
Ok, if this all worked ok then the basic board functionality is working.

You must do this test before attempting to connect a radio as you need to know that the board works under direct power.

The saga continues....

Jakeand · Post by **Jakeand** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:10 am

Hi, I dont want to mess things up but....

wibblywobbly wrote: You need to do the jumper test before anything else (assuming that your board has them).
Do not connect the receiver box to the board in any way.
Do not connect the turret plug.
Just connect the motor leads to the board.
Then connect the battery. The negative goes to the switch and then to the board negative. The positive goes to the switch, then a 20amp fuse, then to the board positive.
Switch on and nothing will happen. This is correct.
Remove the sixth jumper as shown in the manual (Mine is the sixth - yours may be different - thats why you need the manual).
The motors will now start.
If they are running in the right direction (eg to propel the tank forwards) then switch off, remove the battery, replace the jumper.
If they are not running in the right direction then simply swap the wires over on that motor where they attach to the board.

This is for the new system, Mat's pics shows the earlier system.
Beware of this problem could also be related to the transmitter settings, El-Mod assumes that you use "Mode 1" for stick configuration (right stick for direction control) servo direction settings could also affect stick position for the start/ignition (if El-Mod 4 channel)

Attaching manuals for both C6 and 4 channel system

Best regards

Jake

Post by **Matdragon** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:30 am

thanks mate, im downloading the files now!

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:57 pm

Never even occurred to me that tx might not be in mode 1. Good spot!

I had the old system, and now have the new, the motor test was the same on both, so it still needs to be done. If the motors don't function at that stage then there is something wrong with the board, its also the way to check that the motors are plumbed in the right way around.
One other thing to watch out for is that your board is not touching anything metallic when you switch the power on, or while it is on. The last thing that you want at this point in time is to short out the circuits.

If you have any bare wire ends, its a good idea to clamp them into block connectors temporarirly so that they can't do any damage.

You can even wire the whole thing up with the boards on a nice safe non-metallic surface, as long as you have wires long enough to reach the motors. Alternatively mount the board on stand-offs so that it is nice and secure in the hull.

After the motor test, and after the whole thing has been installed securely, you can start attaching the rx leads. Moving the sticks should make the led bllink, that way you at least know the signals are getting to the board.

If no lights come on at all, check the main fuse, and don't wire it up without installing it as you could easily blow everything without it if something does short out. I am beginning to wish that I could pop round your house and fix it for you, I know how frustrating it becomes after a while.

Rob G