RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

AlwynTurner wrote:Well and now for some really good news. I plugged in the battery and turned the tx and tank on and started fiddling. Considering I don't know how to work the tank I finally figured it out (I think). I got the tank start up sound, then I was able to do forward and back left and right turn, don't know how to do a spin but I think it was trying to do that but obviously with stripped gears it don't work so hot. The tank turret rotates and elevates. Haven't tried to shoot bbs but I'm less worried about that. From what I can see the RX18 seems to be working so the board I ordered may be surplus to reqt.

One thing I noticed is that even when not trying to move the tank, the motors seem to be trying to spin, fiddled with the right trim? control and managed to stop that but not quite sure what I'm doing here. At least I appear to have a live tank, just with shot mechanicals. Sound is working good.

All is not doom and gloom! Cheers
Alwyn

See that ...you did get a good deal
Anyway Alwyn...the trims are the two slides next to the right hand stick...one vertical one horizontal


the horizontal one I usually slide all the way to the left ..first then adjust from there....For the vertical one usually set in the middle you can tell the trims are in effect as the idle sound will be different

The unfortunate thing is...with the introduction of the 2.4 Transmitter... which has no trims....several of the crystal units don't have trims either

Good Luck...Continue having fun

ALPHA

Thanks Alpha, I'm feeling much better. This is all trial and error at this stage and all the help you guys are giving me helps enormously, phsychologically as well as factually. If I was just blundering around I would probably be really fed up by now and ready to toos the tank in the bin! Best regards Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:Thanks Alpha, I'm feeling much better. This is all trial and error at this stage and all the help you guys are giving me helps enormously, phsychologically as well as factually. If I was just blundering around I would probably be really fed up by now and ready to toos the tank in the bin! Best regards Alwyn

Hey Alwyn... We all started the same way.... for me it was a box of defects from a store that was going out of business...I was able to harvest enough usable parts to make six running tanks...not bad considering there were nine to begin with and that was without any help or notion what made these things work...found fiddling with them ...a little tweak here and there...that a lot could be done... thus I was hooked ...found this board about six months later...when I got my first HL T34

It's a rewarding Hobby Alwyn... there are ups and downs...but if you are patient enough...those ups and downs turn into smiles when you see your tank run

Best of Luck Alwyn

ALPHA

So you need new gearboxes then, thats not too bad. I know its been said the plastic gearboxes do ok but I destroyed 2 sets of them in my Tiger. The first gearbox lasted me about a week and the 2nd not 2 days, I tried the white metal gearboxes and found they striped faster then the plastic ones! I finally said the heck with it and bought the black hardened steel gearboxes and its been in there for months now with no problem.

Now I am running a fairly modded Tiger with metal drive sprockets, early road wheels, metal idler wheels and a Taigen all metal lower hull and all metal detail bits so my Tiger weighs in at almost 20 pounds so maybe thats what killed the plastic gearboxes and white metal so fast. But the hardened steel gearboxes in 4.1 ratio have done a most excellent job of dealing with not only the heavy weight of my modded Tiger but my running it on every type of terrain there is.

If I had it to do all over again from the start I'd just get the hardened black steel gearboxes and be done with it.

Thanks Alpha and Jackalope, I have ordered a plastic gearbox just to get the tank running, but when I upgrade it the black metal box sounds like the best way forward. I've looked at the drive sprockets and can't figure for the life of me how the blooming things come off the shafts, is there a grub screw or something that holds these things on or is there a secret method known only to the initiates ??
Thanks Alwyn

A black cat and the dark of moon are essentials but so is a hex key, remove the centre cap of the sprocket and in goes the appropriate size hex key some models have a phillips headed screw, peer in with a torch to make sure. shaun

jarndice wrote:A black cat and the dark of moon are essentials but so is a hex key, remove the centre cap of the sprocket and in goes the appropriate size hex key some models have a phillips headed screw, peer in with a torch to make sure. shaun

Roughly translated....take the center cap off the sprocket........find the appropriate size allen wrench ... or screwdriver... use a small flashlight to verify what you need...unscrew...and pull off the sprocket

ALPHA

Thanks guys, it's all so simple when explained, and you can't believe how daft I feel having poked, prodded, pulled, twisted and cursed in an attempt to understand how it worked!
Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:Thanks guys, it's all so simple when explained, and you can't believe how daft I feel having poked, prodded, pulled, twisted and cursed in an attempt to understand how it worked!
Alwyn

No Problem Alwyn The main thing is you have fun while poking prodding pulling and twisting...and can have a laugh about the cursing when the project is done

ALPHA

Tried to order a set of gears from dingding, paid for but never arrived - supposedly been credited but the refund hasn't hit my card yet. I ordered another from tankforce1 - I'll let you know if it arrives. Yes the credit hit paypal so I suppose we must give dingding acknowledgement for making it good.