CanadianBulldog22 wrote:Hey guys,
I decided to continue with my thread. I want to address some of the comments that were left before I talk about the next topic.
2. ALPHA & Wibblywoobly, RE: Topic #1
I like your thought process, I didn't even think about dirt in the tracks slowing it down. In my opinion I think the friction in the wheels is much more detrimental that one would expect. The coefficient of dynamic friction (friction constant while moving) of plastic on plastic is 0.20 in the best case. The coefficient of dynamic friction for a quality roller bearing is around 0.0018. That will create a frictional force over 100x larger without these very light bearings. It also helps smooth out the motion at slower speeds.
WibblyWobbly was concerned about mud getting into the bearings, if done correctly the bearing should be completely recessed into the plastic and you will be able to re-install the hub covers. This should keep anything from getting into the bearing from the front side (I put grease in there for lubrication). Since the 4mm hole that was drilled did not go all the way through the hub, the plastic on the other side (back side) should cover the bearing completely and seal it from dirt as well. No problems there.
I agree with WibblyWobbly, you want the suspension to 'float' just as the suspension starts to work, this will keeps the wheels planted to the ground in rough terrain. Theoretically, if we assume that they designed the tank correctly out of the box, any addition weight added would require stiffer springs and vice versa.
Yes the suspension really shouldn't be heavily compressed while the tank is at idle ... it should actually compress only under load.... or when activated by an obstacle...as the stock suspension should have been designed to handle the stock weight of the tank while static any changes to the suspension should only be done if you have increased the load that's put upon it...so anytime you exceed 12 lbs
What you say about the bearings is true...but at less that 8lbs...the drag coefficient though present ... has already been considered during the general design process from the factory....reason for the application of appropriate gear ratios... type of motors used ... and power supply ...bearings as you say do have a lower drag ratios...that's because of the bearing face...which is basically a micron of contact on the inner and outer race ..instead of the solid axle running within the wheel itself..
Pros and Cons to both I would say...bearing can rust...and can accumulate debris within the sealed mech...causing wear on all the contact faces....Wear does occur on the stock set up as well...but can be lessened by application of wax any kind of wax.... at anything below 12 lbs the wear would be limited...operation still smooth...as you add load....the added weight will increase face contact on both the axle and the inner bore of the wheel... adding in bearings would be the next step to improving the situation...So really... it isn't a necessary mod... it is once you exceed the designed tolerances set from the factory...I would say this is true with any mechanism
ALPHA
...so exceeding 12lbs...can't be better in my mind 
...............No inclusion to the subject of TYPOS 
