RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

c.rainford73 wrote: had a flat lipo battery pack the other day and was able to rescue from the dead with a neat trick I found online....

Can you post the trick, please, Carl? Or maybe send a link to me in a PM? I have a lipo that ran down because my dumb ass forgot to unplug the LVA and it must have gone off when I was at work where I couldn't hear it. Lipos don't cost much, but I'd rather save it if I can, as opposed to just throwing the thing away, can ya dig it?

Max-U52 wrote:

c.rainford73 wrote: had a flat lipo battery pack the other day and was able to rescue from the dead with a neat trick I found online....

Can you post the trick, please, Carl? Or maybe send a link to me in a PM? I have a lipo that ran down because my dumb ass forgot to unplug the LVA and it must have gone off when I was at work where I couldn't hear it. Lipos don't cost much, but I'd rather save it if I can, as opposed to just throwing the thing away, can ya dig it?

Sure thing Max

Son of a gun-ner wrote:You've done one excellent job on this kit Mr Rainford. But like you've said, that was the fun of doing this.

Mick.

Thanks Mick you are correct. The challenge makes the finished product so much more fun.

Ok it's finally running as promised. I'm not used to the controls since its so light and very responsive so my apologies in advance if in one part of the video it almost jumps out of the screen in your face

A very big thank you to everyone here on the forum who inspired me to do something as complicated and crazy as this build.

It's actually a very good runner and with experience in sure it will be even more fun.

I still have to master the neutral shift and braking feature. It's almost a cross between an Elmod and Clark tk60 and Ibu2 with its functions.

Enjoy and don't say I didn't warn you about the part where it almost ran me over

Here's the video link

https://youtu.be/CEqKPZM0H04

Wanted to show some photos of how small the lipo pack is that I had to rework to add the wiring harness with the Jst connector for the lower control board.

The controls are very easy to calibrate. Currently setup to work with my trusty 9xrpro and it's a real treat.

Just press the black calibration button on the lower board. Move the sticks to all directions like the IBU2 and press the button again... All done!

The plan is to move the power switch to the underside of the upper hull so I don't need to pull the halves apart to make it turn on/off.

Thanks for looking

Carl

Carl!,
No open hatches up top for the On\Off switch? Holy Cow! That is a smalllll battery. Bet it puts out a lot of juice tho.
regards,
Painless

PainlessWolf wrote:Carl!,
No open hatches up top for the On\Off switch? Holy Cow! That is a smalllll battery. Bet it puts out a lot of juice tho.
regards,
Painless

Well now that you've said that I may have to rework one of the front hatches to accomplish fitting that little switch. I originally figured I'd just pull the top hull up and get to it but with this being a scale model and quite fragile that is looking to be a bit dodgy an idea at best.

I was hoping to setup the switch under the hull fenders but thanks to the likes of you ( and the Two heads are better than one process) I now have a new project and better idea to tackle the switch access and now I can make the drivers hatch functional too

Thanks Mr Painless

Carl,
If anyone can pull this off and make it look excellent to boot, it is you. Following along.
regards,
Painless

As always your kind words are greatly appreciated and always help along the way