RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Its the bed plus the stepper motor that is bolted on the back, lol. I use an Ikea tabletop, cheap as chips inc 4 legs.

If you want to reduce noise get a sheet of that anti slip mat that you stick in the trunk of your car, cut 4 small squares out and put one under each rubber foot.
If you want to reduce it further then stepper motor dampers are the solution.
If you want to reduce it even further then replace the fans with silent running ones.

I've only done the first one, it makes a difference.

Good points. I think this will address them and I plan to watch the assembly video a few more times before I get started.



I also know that I'm very fortunate to be able to give the printer a room of it's own. I thought having it in the hobby room where I use the dremel and occasionally the airbrush, it wouldn't be the best environment so I put it in the "office" with my desktop.

Gary is up & running, get the balloons out


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midlife306 wrote:Gary is up & running, get the balloons out


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Well, it is running but the first test print failed when it came off the bed about halfway up. I think it's my glue stick. It was an unused stick but it's been on the shelf for quite a while so I'll pick up a new one on the way home from work.

Wibbs, that's just PVA, regular white glue like Elmer's, and you don't thin it but dip the brush is water?

I'm also having a little trouble with CURA. Every time I open it they want to install it again, first uninstalling the previous download. I can't get slic3r to open at all, and it's the same with openscad. This is what I get for being a computer dummy and buying a toy that depends on a computer to function.

But the good news is that I was able to move an ammo crate file that Wayne sent from my PC to the SD card and it even shows up on the screen with the SD card in the printer.

I had to learn a couple of tricks, like how my PC won't load a file from a zip, I have to move it to another folder and then copy it to Cura, and I have quite an education still in front of me, but if I can go home tonight and successfully print a file that Wayne has sent I'll consider myself well along the road to the Emerald City.

Wibbs, that's just PVA, regular white glue like Elmer's, and you don't thin it but dip the brush is water?

I used to use the glue sticks, but found that unless I used a quality brand, it didn't stick.

Using builders liquid PVA and a wet brush it goes on a lot thinner, and once the heated bed has dried it, I never get any warping or parts coming loose. One coat lasts for multiple prints without having to re-apply it.

It doesn’t matter what you use, if the nozzle is either too close or too far away from the print bed, the print will lift!
PVA & Pritt-sticks are the same thing, just a different method of application.


It’s all trial & error at first lol.
Cheers
Wayne


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Yup, the good old Pritt stick is the best one to use, when mine ran out I bought a supermarket own brand and it was nowhere near as good. I had to buy it as they stopped selling the Pritt ones, hence why I tried the big bottle of builders pva which I had here. It will probably last ten years, so a bit cheaper than a glue stick.

It's now been 4 hours since I made the video and it's still printing. Looks great, though, except it looks like the lid has warped and separated around the edges. I think maybe my nozzle height isn't quite right. I'm gonna bring my feeler gauges home from work. How high off the glass should the nozzle be? In one video they want you to use a sheet of paper to level the bed, and a sheet of 20 pound copy paper is about .003 thick, but I've also heard that's too high.

Hey! Just finished. 4:22

Anyway, more to come

Success!





We're off and runnin', and the sky's the limit.

Well done Gary
I love that box, stick two 18650’s in it & your spot lights or FPV are sorted
I’m guessing that the lifting you thought you had around the lid was just the support material holding the edge up?
Cheers
Wayne


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