RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I've tried to get some photos to show the problem. However, I found it difficult to hold the assembly in the correct position with one hand, whilst holding the phone with the other and then taking the photo. For what it's worth these are what I got. In the first two, I have tried to show the difference in range of movement in the two different planes. the second two show the villain of the piece. The slots in the ball end. Hopefully the second photo shows that the two slots are slightly out of line. Also, they are not cut far enough to allow full travel of the axis pin. I have ordered up some new files. The one I used successfully yesterday has made little impact this morning. I can only use about 3 or 4 mm at the very end and I think I have blunted it.

My 3 mm diamond escapement file arrived this morning. What a difference it made. I've done the last three axles in the time it took me to do the first one with my old file. I've checked the range of movement and I THINK it's all up together. The proof of the pudding will be when I get everything reconnected and power it up.

The file taper down from 3 mm to a point so I could do what i need to do just using the end 10-15 mm. The point is sharp, as I discovered on a couple of occasions as I stabbed myself. My poor right index finger will have yet more scars!

Good morning,
It sounds like you have sorted this issue out. The ones we have to work on to fix overlooked manufacturers defects turn out to be the dearest ones I believe. ( I am certainly fond of the current MATO TD build ) Kudos on the new tool!
regards,
Painless

So far as I can tell, the u-j's are all freely rotating as they should. I powered up the chassis and the wheels on the right are still bouncing up and down. For the life of me, I can not see what's causing it. I'm obviously missing something. At present, when I run it the wheels are off the ground and at the bottom of their suspension travel. Until I can work out how to mount the Elmod, I can't run it with the weight of the vehicle compressing the suspension. That will not, of course, remove the cause of the problem, but it may disguise it. It is strange it is only happening on one side.

If I simply press down on the suspension, it stops bouncing, but as I release the pressure, I can feel something - it's as though something is sticking. I'm wondering if it could be something to do with the inner u-j, which is a much simpler affair. The thing is, can I just run in and hope that everything will just bed down with use or do i need to strip it all down again and have another go?

Hi are the wheels or tires out of balance? Just a thought. Maybe swap them and see if the same is happening on the other side?

I would try running it in before resorting to anything more drastic!

c.rainford73 wrote:Hi are the wheels or tires out of balance? Just a thought. Maybe swap them and see if the same is happening on the other side?

I've run it with one wheel off - just the hub and it still bounces, so the problem lies somewhere in the transmission train. I think I will go with Tom's suggestion. All I need to do now is work out where and how to fit the Elmod board.

If it's not one thing it's another. I started to bench run in the gear trains etc. It had not been running long when I noticed a circlip lying on the bench. Inspection revealed it to have come off the lower suspension assembly. I tried to refit it and it fell off immediately. I thought circlips were made from spring steel so they would stay in place. This one obviously is not. I squeezed it tight with some pliers and refitted it - it just opened up and came off. Poor quality again. Such a shame that that having producing an intricate and generally well designed kit, it has been spoiled by little areas of shoddiness. Bearing in mind that a circlip probably costs a small fraction of a penny to produce in China, my question is why cut corners like this?

I've got the turret rotation drive working properly now. All it took was the application of the smallest piece of masking tape on the mount to stop the motor itself moving around. I now need to sort out the actual rotation. Maybe I'm eng a bit pernickety, but i would have expected that the toothed ring would be designed so that when you fit it securely, it leave enough movement to allow the turret to rotate. Sadly this is not the case. When you fit the ring, it effectively clamps the turret solid. If I loosen the self tapping retaining screws, I can get a little movement but then the turret stops and the clutch cuts in. If I loosen the screws a little more, I can get almost total movement to begin with, but the turret is then so loose it slops around and the whole ring disengages from the drive motor. Ideally, it needs a ball race of some sort to lift the turret, like my Tamiya Tiger.

I have some graphite powder on order, so I hope that will do the necessary.

It sounds like this "Kit" needs a serious redesign by its manufacturer.