DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build

[philipat]

Time to start getting the tank ready for primer and paint. That means replacing some of the bits that broke off the fenders while I was testing the tank. A couple of straps came off, and I decided to use this opportunity to make a few of the brackets that hold the track tension wrenches and the handle of the digging bars. The digging bar brackets are angle and channel brass soldered to brass strip and glued using JB Weld.

Next step...wash and clean everything!

[philipat]

Washed and drying...

[philipat]

Time to...

...prime!

[philipat]

Pre-shading...not sure how effective it will be given the dark shade of the primer. I pre-shaded with Tamiya’s German Grey (XF-63). I figured that since these came from the factory that color, then the pre-shading would be realistic. They were painted at sites in southern Europe en route to North Africa.

[HERMAN BIX]

Should be effective mate, the Africa yellow is quite different to the Dunkelgelb when covered, so I reckon you are into it

[philipat]

Hope so! MTF...

[philipat]

I’ve also been playing with the shades and hues of Tamiya’s recommended mixture for RAL 8020. Looking at the various references that I’ve compiled, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of consensus regarding the shade of the color. Some indicate that it is a very light tan with a reddish or pinkish hue. Others indicate a darker brown that still has the reddish hue. Looking at some of the B&W photos that would seem to represent freshly arrived tanks, I think it should be a little bit on the darker side. My tests have used the Tamiya mix (5:2... Flat Flesh:Red Brown or XF-15:5 + XF-64:2). Then, I’ve experimented with adding a drop of either Flat White to different amounts of mixed paint (1 ml, 2 ml and 3 ml) or a drop of Buff (XF-57) or a drop of Deck Tan (XF-55) to 1 ml of mixed paint. I think that I like the straight mixture (no white) for the lower hull and shaded areas of the tank and the 2 drop of white per 1 ml for the upper hull and turret. Although admittedly, I’m not sure that I can see a difference except if I look really close and maybe in bright sunlight.

There also seems to be some disagreement on the hues in RAL 7027. It’s generally a greyish color. But, some think it should have a brown hue and others a slight greenish tint. So, I’ve added different amounts of either Khaki (XF-49) or Khaki Drab (XF-51) to Buff (Tamiya calls for straight Buff) to see how they look with the grey color, but slight greenish tint. I think the Khaki Drab is best, but I haven’t tried this over the base color yet.

I’ve taken pictures in different lights. Cloudy day, sun pushing through the clouds, under flourescent lights...can’t seem to get a good sunny day with good mid-day sun. Under these lights, they all seem very much the same. There are only slight differences. Anyway here are some of my photos. I’ve taken them using printed copies of my reference colors for comparison as a backdrop. I also did some color temperature corrections. My camera seems to leave everything very cool (blue) looking.

It occurs to me that I might be over thinking this whole thing. Thoughts?

Anyhow, here we go...

One reference (no photo retouching):

IMG_0003 (2).jpg (83.82 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

IMG_0004 (3).jpg (65.83 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

IMG_0010 (2)-1.jpg (86.08 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

With photo “warming” to make the white paper whiter and less blue...

IMG_0003 (2) (temp change).jpg (86.84 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

IMG_0004 (3) (temp change).jpg (69.28 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

IMG_0010 (2) (temp change).jpg (90.57 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

First two in the set were taken outdoors on a partly cloudy day with late afternoon sun trying to force through the clouds (no camera flash). The second two were taken outdoors on a cloudy day (no camera flash).

[philipat]

Continuation of the last post...

More photos and another reference...

Second reference (no photo retouching):

IMG_0007.jpg (99.13 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

IMG_0011 (2)-1.jpg (99.1 KiB) Viewed 4836 times

With photo “warming” to make the white paper whiter and less blue...

The first two were taken outdoors on a cloudy day (no camera flash). The third photo was taken outdoors on a partly cloudy day with late afternoon sun trying to push through the clouds (no camera flash).

[HERMAN BIX]

Im going to say...............over thinking it
I can draw comparisons between mine & yours for paint effect :

- mine: Tamiya hull red undercoat(darker than the normal primer I use by several shades.)
- yours: Grey primer and dark grey pre shading.

Mine: thinned 50% Tamiya Desert Yellow XF-59 no added mix.
Yours: possible mix of lightening agents

So you have a very light base with lightening mix planned for the top coat.

My paint went through significant changes during the drying process, beginning very light, then darkening & deepening once dry over days. It really did take on different hues depending on the light, angle of view and of course weathering, and I almost believe this was the plan that the colour was supposed to do way back when.
I guess if you are looking to do a form of modulation , then darker on the lower areas and lighter on top makes sense.
I can say for sure that the XF-59 does behave very differently to the XF-60 dark Yellow , but only as a straight application not a blend.

[philipat]

Yep...probably over thinking it. Think I'll go with the straight paint under the hull and fenders and then lighten it slightly for the exposed upper surfaces.

I think it was supposed to change shade and hue depending on light and angle. Pretty cool effect actually.

But, I did a little more internet research today...

Found someone that painted with the exact mixture I’m trying to use (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMGW5IxN_w, see the 8:30 mark). He even used the same reference (Tamiya kit painting guide, http://www.model-making.eu/products/Ger ... 141-2.html). But, his mixture seems a little lighter than mine, and closer to what I was expecting. I wonder if my math is wrong and I’m using too much Red Brown. It’s supposed to be 5 parts Flesh and 2 parts Red Brown, if I'm reading it correctly. That would make a total of 7 parts. So, that would mean I take the total amount of paint that I want, divide it into 7 parts, and then 5 of the parts will be Flesh and 2 will be Red Brown, right? So, if I want 10 ml of paint, then each part is one seventh of 10 ml, which is 1.43 ml. And, I would need 7.14 ml of Flesh and 2.86 ml of Red Brown, right? Or, am I missing something here?