RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

if i can help in any-way just give me a shout mate and we,ll go through things stet by step, you don't want to use the Mr muscle again  ..................cheers tony.

Thanks Tony,just need to review the dry brushing technique,and at what point if any is the use of further pastels possible.And Bran are you still with me buddy,get that camera out and let's see your Tiger. Blake

Hello Sax, Oz

Here are some pics as to where I am at.

PIC 1  Rear Hull coated with 6 coats of Klear, looks OK

Pic 2/3 are of the Turret.     The barrel, all  Zimmed sides, and locker box, has had 7 klear coats, Looks Ok.  The upper part of the turret is another story. This has had 14 coats of Klear !  Yes you heard it right first time. The cupola, Loaders hatch, vent port, looks ok, but the rest of the surface has an orange peel texture to it. When I painted the turret, I think the paint ratio was  too thick and I should have held the AB closer to the model. The paint was drying before it hit the surface. This is why I am not getting a very smooth finish after using the Klear. Oz, I know you said, keep on re-coating it and it will be Ok, but after 14 coats it has now become a chore. Im hoping when I matt coat it, the Orange peel texture will not be as noticeable. I think it will still be all right to decal and I think the wash will still flow through it Ok. What do you think ?

Pic 5  This is a close up of the turret top/orange peel finish  :-\ :-\ :-\

Sax, I used pastels, orange/brown to create a rust effect to the tops of the exhausts, but as soon as the klear went on it disappeared. Pic 4.

Oz, when you weather the spare track links, did you base coat with a red/brown then rusted them with pastels before Klear coating them ?

Anyway, I look forward to your comments.

Cheers

STEINER

Saxondog wrote: Thanks Tony,just need to review the dry brushing technique,and at what point if any is the use of further pastels possible.And Bran are you still with me buddy,get that camera out and let's see your Tiger. Blake

hi sax.
after you put on the first coat of Matt varnish you can then decide if you want more pastels or not, trying to put them on a glossy surface is impossible so when the varnish is fully dry take a good look at the tank and then you can reapply some if you want, i tend to put a darker color pastel into any deep recesses panel lines or angles and a lighter shade at the edges just to give a bit of color definition. you can use pastels right up to the final finishing stages of the model without any problems as long as the surface is Matt. as for the dry-brushing if you are happy with the pastel color after the first Matt coat then dry-brush the whole thing, but give it a couple of days to dry thoroughly before you dry-brush anything............cheers tony.

OZ when you weather the spare track links, did you base coat with a red/brown then rusted them with pastels before Klear coating them ?

hi steiner.
after you put on the oil-wash and the first coat of varnish and dry-brush then start to paint up all the accessories tools cables spare tracks etc, you can paint the tracks but put on the pastels after the first coat of Matt varnish, one of the guys was asking why don't i paint the whole thing at once camo tools tracks and all and wouldn't that make things easier,  but once i,m happy with the initial base coat pastels and oil-wash i Matt the whole lot down so i can get an idea of the over-all color scheme and how the Matt coat totally changes the look of things but with a gloss coat its very hard to see how things will turn out if i,m happy then i go onto the next stages, i was even accused of giving away too much information by one or two more self important modelers , unfortunately my answer is unprintable , BTW you and sax,s tigers are looking excellent!! great jobs really great jobs................cheers oz

Steiner/Bran on the exhaust caps I am going to use the rust/brown/red pastels applied with brush wetted with thinner.When I was trying out different things with the pastels I did this and barely marked a piece and the color was their to stay,Back plate above the mud guard bracket.I will try this on thee exhaust as I have two sets,Will post tomorrow the result.Check out the forth picture of my posting of the pastels.the mark on the right above the mud flap bracket,that was made as described. sax

Oz,first off thank-you for the compliment,it means alot to me as you know how hard I have worked on this Tiger.This lesson growing into a board that if you observe the number of readers has to of advanced this hobby greatly.To the self described masters I say this,what have you gained if you promote your great works and have not helped your fellows.Answer to die unhappy and alone surrounded by your achievements.Better to die knowing you live on through the things you have inspired in others.That is the mark of a master.Well enough of that,it's all good and I am hubbled to of been a part of it. 1-Saxondog

Oz/Sax

Thanks for the further info. I will post further pics as I progress.

Cheers

STEINER

Here are pictures of two coats of Johnson's floor klear,I will be giving two more coats tonight.The pastels turned a brown shade after the klear was applied,when the ronseal is applied it should tone back to rust color.We also will be adding the dry brushing which will highlite the mechanical features,hatches,hinges,bolt heads,panel joints.vents and so on.Sax

Wow! Thats realy come on. Looks great