RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Very glad to help Mr.Herman.

A funny thing happened to me when....................

You've all heard that opening line, with the unlikely consequences eh.........

"Can you please make some space in MY wardrobe shelves for some stuff I need to store for the rugby club"
"Your tank bits-the left over stuff that you are hoarding for no reason, cant you put them in one box ?- you'll never use them"

So, I'm in her walk-in wardrobe sorting my stuff into a smaller space and 'shove a candle in me ass & call me a birthday cake' I found a set of steel gear boxes(correct shafts) and a set of steel wheels that I forgot I had, along with a pair of high-torque motors

Talk about hit the jackpot ...................well, not really since I was dumb enough to forget them in the first place, but a woo-hoo moment never the less.
The wheels were experimental Panther Zu Fuss running gear(Tiger 1 late worked better) and the gearboxes were for something else but as they had long shafts when I needed shorts went on the shelf as rainy day spares.
The motors I cant even remember why I got those !
All thats missing from the wheels is a long hub centre, which I can use a plastic one for if I cant get a single steel one.

I would absolutely gone & ordered them if it weren't for some assertive demands from Mrs B to clean out her turf !!
Forgot cold that I had them
I also dragged out the brand new plastic king tiger tracks as I can use them to get things tested & aligned, plus count the links and then order the steel tracks with spare links as required.

Been a good night, even if I haven't made any build progress

Herman,
Those "Oh Wow" moments are the best sometimes! Good on you for finding those parts. ;o)
regards,
Painless

Those motors in the gearboxes I gave you are the new really good ones.

Got new axles for the idlers.
As the tensioner was slightly wider than the plastic moulded ones (plastic at 140mm o/A and the tensioners 143mm o/A) plus the reduced diameter of the stock axles being 3mm where the holes in the new tensioner hubs are 4mm, needed to make new axles.
Went to the bolt shop & got M4 cap head bolts(grade 8 HT) with sufficient plain shank to allow the thread to be cut off & the remaining shank fit into the new tensioner hub perfectly.
The stock idlers have 2.5mm spacers inside over the axles and I had 3mm to much over all across the new set up.
So a simple addition of a 0.5mm flat washer on each side will be fine to reinstate the idlers into position on the new mounts.

I will fit the suspension arms & clock the first & last springs.
All the roadwheels, lower hull and inside lower hull are now red oxide, and thats going to be the base colour.
I feel it valid enough to run with a Kubinka-esque pattern which I believe, along with the period picture I already posted, used Dunklegelb and Olivegrun over the oxide base.
I would really appreciate any input or even debate on this as it is a lingering enigma surrounding these last-gasp tanks that has never been put to rest.

My sprockets are arriving soon, the tracks will be ordered once I test the plastic set and count the required links.
I am really wanting to have this as my first elmod tank, as its just the right thing to do.
But as I am worthless at electronics, I may just run with Gen III 2.4 Gig............

Here is another good picture of a Jagdtiger that to my eye shows a seamless transition from the primer under-guard line up the hull.
The only other thing it could be is green base, but somehow I doubt it.

Slightly different shade of gray would seem to me that the primer used was a different color then that of the dark color of the camo. I'm with you on this one Herman I'm going with red oxide primer on my Jagdtiger.

I have all IBU'S for my after market electronics but again I'm with you, I want to try an Elmod but then I also want to try an ASP2. My Jagdtiger runs an IBU3 that I'm just waiting on right now. My M36 will get an ASP2 to try, I lost out on the pre-order having waited 2 months and paying my credit cards intrest on thin air I got a refund just as they arrived! Would have been nice to have been told they were in route but what can you do.

I have a long way to go before the electronics are a priority. Really just planning the internal set up to reflect the control system is key at the moment.
I'm going to cut the upper hull soon

Thanks to Mr Sassgrunt from Hawaii I am now a proud father to a Kubinka style tow hitch
It only needed a minor sanding off the outer edges and it will go straight on.
Only thing I have to do is remove the metal bolt heads off the shrouds & fit the hitch, then place new bolt heads onto it.
I think carefully recovered plastic bolts from the stock shrouds will do for that.
Assuming I cant get proper bolts, that will do.

Its on. The tow hitch is secured.
Got a diamond cutter on my dremmel and mowed the cast nuts off the metal shrouds.
Finished with a file.
Pilot drilled one hole where I thought it needed to go and checked the hitch.
Drilled the bolt hole to 1.8mm and secured the hitch to the back plate.
I found some 1.8mm bolts & nuts in my spares box, again, no idea why I even have them
Once on, used the hitch as a live template to drill all the other holes.
Filed off the burrs & on it went.
Backed the bolt heads with washers to spread the tension on the inside of the plate & I reckon that thing will pull Jesus off the cross

Thanks again Mr Sassgrunt...............I love it and its miles better than a made up one.
All thats left on it is to secure the pin & chain.