Thank you Estnische, Ecam and Herr Professor for your encouragements, really appreciated. It makes me want to do a better job.
It was a nice warm day today, probably the last of the season so it was a good time to do the gun bluing on the tracks, something i do outside.
The TONGDE metal tracks are really good, this is something they know how to do well. They are made of solid metal, well crafted and articulated. They work perfectly. However, they are provided in bright silver, which require something to happen to make them realistic.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 1.JPG (1.94 MiB) Viewed 813 times
The only issue with them are these 2 large mark pins on the interior side. It would have been perfect if TONGDE had found a way to avoid molding these so heavily. I thought of removing them by filing every pins with a Dremel and then a finer grit hand file to smooth it. But the metal is hard and with 214 track links to do, and with an estimated 3 minutes of work per link, i calculated it would take me about 11 hours of metal grinding and polishing work. This would completely drain my patience and hardware store, and i hate metal grinding, it has risks. I therefore decided that i could live with them.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 1a.JPG (474.45 KiB) Viewed 813 times
Same as with the M-60A1 build, i am using the Gun Bluing solution Perma Blue by Birchwook Casey. It worked perfectly with the M60 tracks so it should work as well on the Centurion tracks. The 90ml bottle can be purchased on Amazon for a few dollars and there is enough for 3 applications and touch ups for a set of tracks. Its a watery solution and does not emit any smell.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 1b.JPG (2.99 MiB) Viewed 813 times
Since it’s a kind of acid and poison, i take no chances and do it outside. Warnings on the bottle do not say much so it’s probably harmless at the touch. It does not melt skin or anything like that. Looks like a strong vinegar but if it can eat metal, who knows what else it can do. Each application is done with a used tooth brush, eye protection, long sleeves and pair of gloves, ensuring the solution goes into every area of the track links, simply brushing the tracks with the stuff. It darkens the metal on contact. Some areas of the tracks seem immune at first.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 2.JPG (1.64 MiB) Viewed 813 times
The first application is usually inconclusive, but it preps the metal for the following application. I usually focus on the connectors on the first application. After 5 minutes waiting, the tracks are soaked in water to rinse them, cleaned up with a cotton cloth and let to dry 1 hour in the sun.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 3.JPG (2.7 MiB) Viewed 813 times
After the second application, its already much better and we can see where this is going.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 4.JPG (2.9 MiB) Viewed 813 times
On the third application, i focus on the sides and more difficult areas. The tracks are already good and better than any attempts using paint.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 6.JPG (2.9 MiB) Viewed 813 times
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 7.JPG (2.11 MiB) Viewed 813 times
The fourth application is mostly touch ups on specific areas, and then an overall brushing. Its close to perfection.
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 8.JPG (2.23 MiB) Viewed 813 times
- 1/16 RC IDF Late Sho't Meteor Centurion with 105mm - build
- 8a.JPG (2.15 MiB) Viewed 813 times
Continuing on following post.
