RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm waiting for a few special connectors to arrive. Some are intended for the Convoy Light I'm aiming to fit to the Panther.
Both the Heng Long and Taigen lower hulls have a moulded- in 'convoy light' here:

The red arrows indicate the shape I need to remove, in order to fit the light. I'll use scalpels rather than the Dremel, because of the proximity to the storage bin, and shackle.
Before the fitting process- and it will need end retainers for the lamp-I need to test the lamp. The Retainers will replace the moulded ends. With care, I can keep the moulded power supply unit below the lamp.
I connected it to a 3vDC battery pack. Then Fiat Lux!- let there be (blue) light!


If you're minded to fit one of these, just remember that one of the apparently identical leads is longer than the other. This is the + anode.
There is a provision for a rear lamp on the V6.0, and so I don't think a 220-Ohm resistor will be needed. Hope not, anyway
Onward and upward- another day. Don't get complacent about that evil bug, by the way. It's just as much a threat as it ever was.

I checked my V6 Panther & no grille mesh on mine, inside or out !

Roy!
I see a way to easily mount your rear convoy light! Use a small plastic saw and remove all the molded plastic except for a thin section of each end cap. Drill out the right sized hole for those pegs on the brass version in the remaining plastic sections then just snap the brass light into place in your 'ready made' holder. The wiring going through the holes in the rear armor will help hold it in place. Following along!
regards,
Painless

HERMAN BIX wrote:I checked my V6 Panther & no grille mesh on mine, inside or out !

Mine was supplied by a German firm, HB. It's possible that they fitted the grills themselves (albeit a quick- and erroneous internal fitting). Dominique's tanks, for example, often seem to be delivered as 'specials', and with custom paint jobs. Mine also came with shod with metal tracks. Not a bad extra, eh?

PainlessWolf wrote:Roy!
I see a way to easily mount your rear convoy light! Use a small plastic saw and remove all the molded plastic except for a thin section of each end cap. Drill out the right sized hole for those pegs on the brass version in the remaining plastic sections then just snap the brass light into place in your 'ready made' holder. The wiring going through the holes in the rear armor will help hold it in place. Following along!
regards,
Painless

I have something like that in mind, Painless. I'm just waiting for some connectors to arrive, which will allow me to detach the light whenever the upper hull is removed. The lamp leads will pass through the rear panel, and be soldered to a separable two-pin connector block, one half of which will feed into the MFU's LED terminals.
All the best!
Roy.

Edit: I forgot to mention, that the Convoy light is slightly longer than the moulded lamp and its 'end caps'. Consequently, the whole plastic unit will need to be excised

Roy!
No problem, Doc! On Mike's Tiger, I did the full boat ABER brass mount that had to be assembled and then the working convoy light dropped into it. I turned around and did the same thing on my Late Tiger from Terry. It is an amazing piece of Eye Candy once installed. I'm looking forward to seeing your Panther complete. ;o)
regards,
Painless

A quick update, Painless, and others. I had some bits of Comet components on a sprue, which arrived slightly late- after I'd actually scratch-made some myself. The hinges look ideal for use as 'ends' for the light. So, I cut then out and then made a plate to bond them to, having already drilled an appropriately offset hole for the wiring.
I aslo used the drilled plate as a template for making a hole for the wiring in the tank's rear plate. All that remains to be done, is to the excise the existing plastic convoy light from the rear plate- gingerly That's for another day.
Potential end mounting supports:

Now the mounting plate:

...and all bonded together. It should be a simple matter, to bond the assembly to rear plate with a drop or two of plastic cement.


Now for some domestic drudgery: cleaning, dog maintenance (walking, feeding, and medicare for Midgie), and a visit, for essentials, to the village shop- complete with mask. Can't wait. Still, walking along the Loch is really a privilege. So, I will nae grumble

Got the light in place this morning. I'll have to touch up all the surrounding paintwork soon, and then add some washes for good definition. First, I'll have to connect it up- and test it in situ.
I'm planning to use 'Breadboard connectors', for the connection to the MFU's LED terminals, as finding a suitable two-pin JST lead has proved tricky. (The red ones, for battery connections, have the correct 2.5mm spacing, but have the wrong push-in terminals for my purposes (too long). More later.
Some smarty will tell me the tracks are on the wrong way- but, they work and....well, it's just a runner. It's not heading for the Tank Catwalk

Good morning, Roy!
It is looking grand! A drop of translucent red in that reflector at the lower left hand will add some more excellent eye candy for a minimum of effort. ;o) *ducks*
regards,
Painless

PainlessWolf wrote:Good morning, Roy!
It is looking grand! A drop of translucent red in that reflector at the lower left hand will add some more excellent eye candy for a minimum of effort. ;o) *ducks*
regards,
Painless

I don't think I have any translucent red currently, Painless. I was going to improvise with a drop of blood, but that would turn black eventually-or amber, after a whiskey I have some red insulation tape, but it's not translucent...
Still, the light's in...and ...wait for it...yes, it's working too!

The Convoy leads are thin and tricky to work with. However, I soldered them to some shortened (female) breadboard connectors. (Luckily, I have a plentiful supply.) The B'board connectors are single-pin, but when combined, they are a comfortable fit inside the MFU's LED pin array box.


I've added notes to the pic, because the (unconnected) Headlight 2-pin connector appears to be fitted to No 1 terminal. In reality, it will be connected to No 4's pins- between the No 3- Tail Lights (Now Convoy Light), and LED 5- the MG flashing light. That's just in case someone uses the pic as a connection guideline.


and clanking into the porch over the porch step (yes..it does need a wipe ) Then again, the onshore breeze if blowing bits of grass in from the lawn I've just mown. Drat

Right- now, where did I leave that duster?