Re: M-113A1 ACAV APC - Vietnam - Build
Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 2:45 am
Thank you Barry,
Here is the model after a Tamiya TS-28 Olive Drab enamel coat. I like to use enamel in cans for large surface because it is fast and the enamel seals the putty and prevent the oil in it from going through the surface and ruin the paint job. I am also always anxious to see the result of the first coat on a mostly scratch built kit. It was a relatively fast construction period (started October 21) so I expected issues to come out in the open and requiring corrections. At first sight, it is not too bad. My technique is to take close up pictures all around the vehicle and look at them on a big screen. It is easier for my 51 year old eyes to spot areas of improvements or fine tuning.
A great success seems to have been the cupola. Considering that the hatch for example was build from 3 layers of plasticard and then shaped by hand with a file, I think it looks good. The whole thing needs limited adjustments.
I knew the interlocking arrangement of the sheet styrene armored plates would be an issue and require rework. They were quite something to prep for painting. However, just a few of these need minor putty and sanding now, a good surprise, these will be easily fixed. What I really like about these think styrene sheets is that their are naturally very strait, strong and easy to work with, unlike resin.
3D printed items can become an issue when their shape prevents sanding and polishing of their layered composition. I went too fast when ordering mine from Shapeways and I did not select the better but more expensive 'green polished' material. However, road wheel are not the main focus of this build. Seen here is the Tamiya 1/25 Centurion hub cap modified to fit the M113 wheel. Not ideal but I did not find better alternatives. Pershing or M41 hub caps are way too big for the M113 road wheel, believe me, I tried.
I see some stuff for the first time here. I could barely see the joints or cracks in contrasts when the whole thing was white.
Next step is to make corrections, clean up residue all over the vehicle, sand and polish a bit, then a bit more, then give a light coat and see if I am happy with it.
Regards, Louis
Here is the model after a Tamiya TS-28 Olive Drab enamel coat. I like to use enamel in cans for large surface because it is fast and the enamel seals the putty and prevent the oil in it from going through the surface and ruin the paint job. I am also always anxious to see the result of the first coat on a mostly scratch built kit. It was a relatively fast construction period (started October 21) so I expected issues to come out in the open and requiring corrections. At first sight, it is not too bad. My technique is to take close up pictures all around the vehicle and look at them on a big screen. It is easier for my 51 year old eyes to spot areas of improvements or fine tuning.
A great success seems to have been the cupola. Considering that the hatch for example was build from 3 layers of plasticard and then shaped by hand with a file, I think it looks good. The whole thing needs limited adjustments.
I knew the interlocking arrangement of the sheet styrene armored plates would be an issue and require rework. They were quite something to prep for painting. However, just a few of these need minor putty and sanding now, a good surprise, these will be easily fixed. What I really like about these think styrene sheets is that their are naturally very strait, strong and easy to work with, unlike resin.
3D printed items can become an issue when their shape prevents sanding and polishing of their layered composition. I went too fast when ordering mine from Shapeways and I did not select the better but more expensive 'green polished' material. However, road wheel are not the main focus of this build. Seen here is the Tamiya 1/25 Centurion hub cap modified to fit the M113 wheel. Not ideal but I did not find better alternatives. Pershing or M41 hub caps are way too big for the M113 road wheel, believe me, I tried.
I see some stuff for the first time here. I could barely see the joints or cracks in contrasts when the whole thing was white.
Next step is to make corrections, clean up residue all over the vehicle, sand and polish a bit, then a bit more, then give a light coat and see if I am happy with it.
Regards, Louis