The 3D Printer Thread

[PainlessWolf]

"I didn't even download the instructions until I was 70% of the way through it?"[/quote]

Good afternoon, Mr. W.W. I'm possibly waiting for the picture of you running hap-a-dash through the streets with your clothing aflame while comic book style, your shop goes up with a giant 'FOOM!!' sound effect. *chuckles* Maybe now, as this progresses, 1/30 scale Sherman tracks could be created and sold for a reasonable price. ;o) *bows* Following along.
regards,
Painless

[Woz]

DLP printer for under $1000

http://www.printer3d.one/new-3d-printer ... -uv-resin/

Still in Beta but I'm just a tad excited about this.

[wibblywobbly]

My guess is that resin printers will be the next phase. It's just a matter of cost vs technology. At the moment the cost of the resin is extortionate, if they can get that down to pla/abs levels, and be able to print 200x200x200 then it's a winner.

This Kossel printer is a nightmare to configure, the manual was copied from a different model, and is plain wrong at several crucial points. Until I have all of the settings right I can't even run the bed leveller properly. I have learned more about what the Marlin firmware does in three days than I learned in two years with the other printer. Only then will I find out whether I have built it straight and true. I certainly wouldn't recommend one of these to a beginner, they would either be in tears or the madhouse within a few days.

[Woz]

For me print size isn't that important. Cost and resolution are what I'm looking at. DLP is faster then SLA but printing large detailed parts at high res will still take weeks.

I'll use my FDM for printing the large parts hulls, wheels etc and use the DLP for all the detailed bits like lights, MG's

Resin is expensive but if a lot of cheaper resin printers come on to the market then I think resin prices will drop.

[wibblywobbly]

After a 'lot' of faffing about, not helped by an installation of Pronterface that became corrupted and had me believing that the printer was the source of the problem. Anyhow got around that, delved into the firmware several times, and adjusted all sorts, and eventually got the bed levelling to work. It even moves to a peg on the side that resets the probe and pushes it back into position.

Once I have figured out the start/end gcode I can give it a test print, and then will have to start all over again fine tuning the calibration.

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I tested the Buildtak on the other printer. If anyone goes down this route, yes it works, I can even print without a brim. 'But' apply it carefully, no air bubbles, and you need to move your Z offset up. Start high and then bring it down. It the hot end touches the mat it will melt into it. You also need to be absolutely bang on with the height or it will either stick so hard you need to chisel it off, or it won't stick as well as it should. Perfect is when you can simply pluck it off.

[wibblywobbly]

This was judgement time. All assembled (crap instructions), firmware set up how I thought it should be (no instructions), and a gcode file created (no instructions).

Put the SD card in, switched on, selected print on the LCD...and it works!! Needs a bit (a lot) of fine tuning but now I have something to work with rather than guessing at what things should be.

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[OnTrack]

Very cool, the Z build area looks massive. What will be your first epic scale print?

That resin printer looks very good, especially for small detailed bits and bobs. Now I'm torn between this one, the cherry and the Form2. Cost per ounce of resin is a really big factor but I love the resin management cartridges that Form2 uses. It's great to save money on resin per ounce, but if a whole batch spoils in the pot due to exposure, the cartridges may be the difference. It's interesting to me how much operation printer management makes a difference. Just like automobiles I suppose. Some run rough but reliable for years with little effort, others produce incredible experiences but can be a bit cranky if not loved daily. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

I'm most interested in the desktop SLS printers that have popped up from time to time. The most interesting one was acquired by one of the big commercial 3D printer outfits before they even got their product out the door. SLS is what Shapeways WSF is printed from, the little laser heated grains of plastic sand. Minimal cleanup, almost invisible stepping and no support material to pry off make that technology attractive despite the slightly rough texture it produces.

This is such a great time for the hobby!

[OnTrack]

By the way, has anyone taken their 3D prints and gone to metal? I've got a few that could really benefit from metal and know little about whether to cast, cnc, print in 3d or ? I'm looking at you guys that have specifically asked for metal gear and tracks for the M5A1.

[wibblywobbly]

Never had anything printed in metal, though there are some videos on You Tube, where people have 3D printed objects and cast their object using it as a total loss mould. The results weren't good though.

Some plastics are as good as metal, polycarbonate based, PETG, aluminium strengthened filament etc, there are stacks of different filaments out there.

[wibblywobbly]

Finally figured it out after trawling the web and learning bits from here and there. Configured it how I thought should be done and ran a test print that came out quite accurately, so I am a happy bunny now!

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