RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

tomhugill wrote:Stunning install there Barry! Sorry the Clark didn't work out for you

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yan33 wrote:wow i love it so much
it's simply perfect

abramsky wrote:Hello Barry
Outstanding job. I'm pretty sure you could easily handle something like this :

http://www.dotcom-monitor.com/blog/wp-c ... -touch.jpg

My advice if you find any problems related to possible interference. You can twist the wires in pairs (+ and ground), especially those responsible for signal transmission.

Herr Dr. Professor wrote:Jarlath,

Where can I get some of these? Although I don't do much changing out from stock electronics, I do like to "neatify" wiring to avoid potential snags.

wire_c10.jpg

Jarlath wrote:Ah Barry,
I see that you are a wiring neatness freak like myself...
Routing for cleanliness of install, cable ties abound (I found some really nice 1.8mm wide x 60mm long micro zip-ties on Ebay..)

I also see a bunch of tape holding wires in place (Servo Recoil), and wonder if you have access to these?

Hi Jarlath, The tape is just temporary for testing, it will get properly secured.

12.5mm wide, 3M adhesive aluminum wire clip.

I have a query however...
I am looking at your turret installation and it appears at first glace that you have built your framework around the 3S Lipo battery...
On/Off switch and mounting bracket (written on/off label on battery)
Potentiometer (Sound volume) over the back edge of the battery
I also noticed the mass additions on the front turret cheeks to balance the rotation forces due to the battery... I plan to reduce once the finished upper turret with all the brass is installed, some my still be needed for balance. I also have sprung rollers to install between the lower turret and the hull turret ring to help create balance. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3298912 ... 4c4dYp5Cpk
Is the 360 commutator just a housing? Most that run the smaller wires usually can only handle 2A and you have 4 motor wires going through. The Slip Ring has 2x10A Circuits (4 wires). I got it from RC Tank Legion. https://www.rctanklegion.com/products/s ... 2-wires-2a

Which brings me to my query...
How much of a hassle will it be to change the battery? I know in it's current configuration, the battery appears to remain a part of the tank and is charged with it installed as such (just with the main lead and balance plug hooked up to the Lipo charger). The battery slides out of the holder, It takes about 15 seconds to remove and will be charged outside the tank.
However, what is going to happen when the battery starts to puff? (There is no stopping it as it is a chemical reaction, but you can control the rate of the electrolyte decomposition with proper care/usage).

BarryC wrote: Hi Jarlath, The tape is just temporary for testing, it will get properly secured.
Excellent!

I plan to reduce once the finished upper turret with all the brass is installed, some my still be needed for balance. I also have sprung rollers to install between the lower turret and the hull turret ring to help create balance. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3298912 ... 4c4dYp5Cpk
These look more like Detent balls than a roller. It looks like if you compress the spring by putting mass on the ball, the rolling ability becomes less (Spring friction on the ball).

The Slip Ring has 2x10A Circuits (4 wires). I got it from RC Tank Legion. https://www.rctanklegion.com/products/s ... 2-wires-2a
Wow... I did not even know a Tamiya specific one existed. I'll have to look into that...

The battery slides out of the holder, It takes about 15 seconds to remove and will be charged outside the tank.
Glad to know that my initial impression from your images was mistaken. Excellent.

Jarlath wrote: These look more like Detent balls than a roller. It looks like if you compress the spring by putting mass on the ball, the rolling ability becomes less (Spring friction on the ball).