RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

HERMAN BIX wrote:While we are on requests, hows about 'Steiner' out of Cross Of Iron

I'm happy to report that this is actually possible. Dragon made 1:18 figures years ago as many of you know. One if them had a head sculpt based on Sergeant Steiner himself!
http://www.sshqdb.com/18/thumbnails.php?album=320

jussek

genius !

thanks mate!

hi chaps,

some more advances, this time, we are 'trying' to model 3D items (ammo, boxes, and so on...)

here you can see -in white- the 3D printed objects we are making taking as model the resine ones that you can see:









in these pics: rockets and containers for 15cm NbW41, ammo boxes for 3,7cm FlaK43 (closed and first version of the open ones, more and better versions to follow), and also ammo boxes for the MGs...

now... how do you get rid of the 'stratified' surface of the printed objects? i tried by sanding, but it is time consuming, boring and i'm not completelly satisfied with the results. A friend has lent me a kit of XTC-3D coating, but i've yet tested it...

best regards!

This is an inspirational thread.
It would be great to see all this scale armour for real.

thanks mate!

Tiggr wrote:This is an inspirational thread.
It would be great to see all this scale armour for real.

Oh we will.
Once the "Official Venue for The World Expo of 1/16th RC Tanks" is handed over, we can see it alright

A smart guy would also time that opening to coincide with a Moto GP round..................

HERMAN BIX wrote:

Tiggr wrote:This is an inspirational thread.
It would be great to see all this scale armour for real.

Oh we will.
Once the "Official Venue for The World Expo of 1/16th RC Tanks" is handed over, we can see it alright

A smart guy would also time that opening to coincide with a Moto GP round..................

LOL! a will note this 'smart' tip!

Jussek wrote: now... how do you get rid of the 'stratified' surface of the printed objects? i tried by sanding, but it is time consuming, boring and i'm not completelly satisfied with the results. A friend has lent me a kit of XTC-3D coating, but i've yet tested it...

That stratified surface problem is called "stepping". There are a few ways to handle it.

- Make sure the model itself is not contributing. Usually this isn't an issue if the model looks good on the computer screen and is high resolution.
- Change the orientation of the model when it prints. The Z axis and X/Y axis may have different resolution capabilities. You can orient your print in a way that minimizes stepping. For example, printing a gun barrel horizontally will have lots of stepping. Printing it vertically will have very minimal stepping.
- Increase the printer quality either by changing settings and even the nozzle on the printer itself if possible, or switching to a commercial printing company like Shapeways. Almost all of my recent prints from Shapeways in their WSF material have had zero stepping.
- Primer works after a few coats depending on how big the steps are. I use a filler primer that is meant to address cracks. It has a bit more of a putty like material mixed. Mr. Surfacer is good and I am also able to find some in big cans from Rustoleum at the hardware store.

OnTrack wrote:

Jussek wrote: now... how do you get rid of the 'stratified' surface of the printed objects? i tried by sanding, but it is time consuming, boring and i'm not completelly satisfied with the results. A friend has lent me a kit of XTC-3D coating, but i've yet tested it...

That stratified surface problem is called "stepping". There are a few ways to handle it.

- Make sure the model itself is not contributing. Usually this isn't an issue if the model looks good on the computer screen and is high resolution.
- Change the orientation of the model when it prints. The Z axis and X/Y axis may have different resolution capabilities. You can orient your print in a way that minimizes stepping. For example, printing a gun barrel horizontally will have lots of stepping. Printing it vertically will have very minimal stepping.
- Increase the printer quality either by changing settings and even the nozzle on the printer itself if possible, or switching to a commercial printing company like Shapeways. Almost all of my recent prints from Shapeways in their WSF material have had zero stepping.
- Primer works after a few coats depending on how big the steps are. I use a filler primer that is meant to address cracks. It has a bit more of a putty like material mixed. Mr. Surfacer is good and I am also able to find some in big cans from Rustoleum at the hardware store.

thanks for the tips mate!