RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I think that's the first time that I have seen a decent review of the quality of Shapeways prints, they are really good. I have no idea what those parts cost you to get printed, but I know Shapeways aren't cheap.

Like you I always use a PLA stick on glass for my prints, it's cheap, quick, and works really well. I tried everything else and this was the cure. There is also something called Buildtak on the market, a kind of plastic mat that you place on the print bed. I have seen a few video reviews and it seems to work brilliantly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252702876677? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Just a small point, Slicers are called slicers because they slice the model into layers that the printer can print. Something like Netfabb can be used to cut a model into smaller sections to print on the space available on the print bed, and repair the the open faces where it has been cut. Cura has an option for sinking a part into the print bed so that only part of it is printed. This is a quick way of printing a part in two sections, sink it down 50%, print it, flip it over 180 degrees and then print the other half.

Love those parts that you have done, really good to see some original models being created, and with some excellent detail. Do you have any pics of completed models that you can post up?

I use hairspray to get my parts to stick. I've tried several different brands and found Insette Spikey to work best. I use it for PLA and ABS. I sticks so well that I have several (toughend) glass plates with chunks missing out of them because the part stuck too well.

I noticed that SW's are trying PLA and it is a lot cheaper then WSF.

Tested a 1/16 PZ II lower hull, in WSF it's over £100 and £60 in PLA.

Well I have just bitten the bullet and ordered one of these. If you think that it looks flashy and wow, I suggest that you read this 50 page thread on the Reprap forum.



Less than £200.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,540379,page=1

Yes folks, this is what you can be letting yourself in for when you buy a 3D printer.

That said, Sintron, unusually for a Chinese company, have been listening to feedback and modified the parts supplied. The only mod now required is the use of Traxxas ball arms.

I got as far as page 25 and was about to run away, but then skipped to the last page and worked backwards. There is a guy who is using an unmodified printer for model parts, and I don't think I have ever seen quality like that on a DIY printer (or a professional one!).

It will take a few weeks to get here, but I am the parient type.

May I know what is the materials used for printing? Plastic? Some type of powder?

Hi Rob, please,please do a build thread and commentary when you get it, it looks fascinating?

Thanks
Alwyn

I would never be able to do better than this guy....63 parts??

SteelBird wrote:May I know what is the materials used for printing? Plastic? Some type of powder?

Usually PLA or ABS.
ABS is a bit toxic and smells, needs a heated bed. Flexes slightly.
PLA is biodegradeable, barely smells, and doesn't require a heated bet. More rigid.

Look on You Tube for info, there are plenty of demo's.

Very cheap 3D printer.

101Hero.....

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/10 ... 3d-printer



and someone who persevered...



Personally, I would save my cash and buy something that is going to be a better printer.

I just found out the first 3D printer was sold in 1984.
And they sold for 12 or 16 thousand beer tickets!!!!

Well this one cost about the same as a Taigen tank, but is rather more demanding in terms of grey matter to put together.

It arrived Wednesday, and this is where I am. All assembled, and all circuits, motors, end stop microswitches etc etc installed and tested.

Next up is hooking it up to a pc, and seeing what needs changing in the firmware that makes it all print properly. Unlike my other printer which was a fairly straightforward kit to assemble and get working, this one has stacks of things that can affect print quality. When they are perfect it prints fast and accurately, with amazing quality....but....

The 60+ videos that the guy in Oz made that show how to build one are a bit out of date. The Chinese company that makes them is very good, and has updated the kits in response to feedback, they are much better now than when he made the videos, and a great deal of what he says about modifying bits and pieces is no longer required. Mine went together fairly easy, I didn't even download the instructions until I was 70% of the way through it?