RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Phil wrote:ALPHA its not rust, just ran out of green!

But it's so perfectly placed ....you should run out of green more often ...that rust looks so good.. it'd be hard to mimic it again...

I used to watch this scenic painter on public tv... whenever he did a tree... and it came out really well... he wouldn't touch it again... and proclaim it a "MIGHTY TREE" his reference to the all mighty ... who creates nature and all it's wonders

So I guess that's an example of an all mighty creation... "MIGHTY RUST"

Keep up the great work Phil... that baby is going to really be something to add to your proud lineup

ALPHA

Hey Guyz,

sry for my rosty english skills, but i ve read a bit of that nice review here and like to admit something at this point. I ve already noticed the false height of the T-34 like all of you. For me it seems that all axes are incorrectly mounted if i look at one of the pictures. Its like that all axes are only mirror-inverted. If u change the right axes to the left side, and all left to the right side of the chassis, you will get the right height...

Maybe i help so1 here with my support

Regardz

Jo F. Jr

Interesting idea Jo F, thank you. I like the way I've done the suspension it gives me soft movement with loads of travel, I'll give it a go with a couple of arms at a later date.

Finished the engine bay vents which are fully adjustable

Jo F. Jr wrote:Hey Guyz,

sry for my rosty english skills, but i ve read a bit of that nice review here and like to admit something at this point. I ve already noticed the false height of the T-34 like all of you. For me it seems that all axes are incorrectly mounted if i look at one of the pictures. Its like that all axes are only mirror-inverted. If u change the right axes to the left side, and all left to the right side of the chassis, you will get the right height...

Maybe i help so1 here with my support

Regardz

Jo F. Jr

Hello Jo... have you tried your theory ?....Dr Phil found the solution for the early model of the HENG LONG T-34...and elaborated on it further softening the suspension ... I tried your theory... if you check earlier posts made by me... I explained changing the arms ... switching them left to right.... at the time it seemed logical... as the result is similar... but it doesn't work ...for one thing... you end up with less travel .... the second is for some reason the tension on the track is affected to such a degree that they will bind when changing direction or turning...locking up your gearboxes... sure this can also be solved changing the tracks... shortening them... but as i further explained... the way the tracks are designed they would become too short to work properly ... thus you now have to adjust the tension... another thing Dr Phil found you could do ... also explained in this thread ... but still that will not be enough as your travel is too limited in the mirrored exchange of the arms

The thing is.. the problem is no longer there as HENG LONG has fixed the problem with the new models now being distributed... so the "jacked up" look will be only on the old/early releases in ASIA
I know this because I have both... I bought one from a relatively shady online shop in asia... and one from EBAY.from a very good seller who had the full metal version for the price of the lower model that I got from China ...who is probably still selling the old model

That's the long and short of it.... So basically if you have the OLD model ... the best way to modify it is Dr, Phil's plastic in the travel guide of the hull and play with the springs ....if you have the NEW version... you can play with the springs... not to much I would add... as I also covered that in this thread

Thanks for the input... you must come back with some pictures of your model...as the T-34 is still a relatively new release... and not widely spread out yet... there are the WSNs ... which are slightly better "looking" ... but without major modification... work as well as the HENG LONG IMO that is

ALPHA

Phil wrote:Interesting idea Jo F, thank you. I like the way I've done the suspension it gives me soft movement with loads of travel, I'll give it a go with a couple of arms at a later date.

Finished the engine bay vents which are fully adjustable

Been drooling to see more of your tank Dr Phil nice vent work... have you decided how to mount the deck lid yet? now that you and dgsellkirk have provided better images... I'm thinking of doing the second one so it can open in both directions ... not sure yet though... I might stick with the single.. but make it go completely across... as I found after painting the stock hinges don't match up as nice anymore

Also on my first one I covered those wedge shaped holes under the engine vent grates...with plastic... as I couldn't remove the deck lid... the second one I'm going to do it with aluminum or brass ... so they look more like the photos ...as I think I got lucky with the first one.. the plastic I used had a slight curve to it (came from a scrap Tiger hull) and had enough area to file a "table" or "landing" for the grates.. and fit nicely in place ...having no effect on the closing of the deck lid




Have a good one Dr Phil... Thanks again for the inspiration and help

ALPHA

Phil wrote:Right, had to be done. Small blocks added under suspension arms.

Phil, please could you tell me what thickness of plasticard you ended up using? I know the width = 3.5mm. Thanks.

TKcommander wrote:

Phil wrote:Right, had to be done. Small blocks added under suspension arms.

Phil, please could you tell me what thickness of plasticard you ended up using? I know the width = 3.5mm. Thanks.

Good evening TK....you don't need to worry about that anymore... read on further to just swapping/ adjusting the springs... on my second T34 (the new gen) ... I went soft on the front... med in the center and on the final one in back hard.... it helped keep the power where it should be... the soft on the front allowed it to climb just about everything.... especially needed with the relatively "flat" profile of the HENG LONG track design...the after market ones available from forgebear in the UK... and RC Dynasty in the states are better... I have those on my first one (old gen) that's the one that had the "jacked" look... almost like a Walker bulldog

Hope that helped...it's a great tank... I think HENG LONG's finest to date....I take that back... The LEOPARD might be a tad better ...but I'm bias.. because I like the size and maneuverability of the T-34


Have a great Holiday

ALPHA

TKcommander

3.5mm square

Ordered some mesh, far to much!


Cut some off and shaped it to fit, I glued it in place with CA glue with a sprinkle of baking soda when the glue was still wet, which sets really hard and fills the gaps in the mesh to keep it in place. I'm thinking about using magnets to keep the cover in place instead of hinges but I'm unsure at the moment. Its going to have a red light at the back which is relatively easy using the front light pickup and run the wire to the back with a red LED in some sort of cover.




I'll have to try and do the big build stuff from now on as I have to have an eye operation soon, well about a month to two months time depending on the NHS as my left eye has Cataract that has been forming for a while, makes close up work a pain and typing on screen 3D! lol

Good Morning, Phil,
I can only imagine the work that you are going to be capable of after your eye operation. Take care of yourself. This T-34 is a work of armor art already.
regards,
Painless

Phil wrote:TKcommander

3.5mm square

Ordered some mesh, far to much!

Your not kidding Phil ... that's one heck of a lot of mesh

ALPHA