RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

For front- and backlight was used SMD-LED‘s; here good to see the placement of the SMD in the middle of the backlight.



The new SMD in the front headlight.



The cable feedthrough in the rear plate…



My head switch I’ve placed now inside the tank, before he was placed under the wooden block for the jack – now I can replace the old block against a real wooden block.



Powered and controlled is my Kingtiger by ElMod Fusion Pro; mounted at three stay bolts and is covered by a little box of polystyrene plates.





A little addendum; on the track tensioner I’ve used like at my Tiger 1 also a throughout socket, this for more strength at the idler wheel.









For today’s final a little special feature. The original splinter guards by Torro are not bad, but they have a very big plastic frame.
Also the etched parts by Aber I don't like because there are the grids only etched, splinter guard grids with real mesh wire are more authentic.
To cut the frame for the guards is not possible for me – so I’d draw the frames and have the work commissioned; etched was from a 0,3 mm thick brass sheet.



With this part I’ve started…



…here all individual parts for one side.



The first edges were folded.



Then I’ve used again my copper mesh wire, here at folding,…



…inlaid in the frame and fixed…



…then soldered and ready.





Now still missing the fixing points, but so it would look later.



To be continued...

Es sieht aus wie eine Herzensangelengeit...und Ich bin wirklich beeindruckt damit ..

Hervorragend!!!!!!!!!!!!

ALPHA

43rdRecceReg wrote:Es sieht aus wie eine Herzensangelengeit...und Ich bin wirklich beeindruckt damit ..

I'm very impressed - answers in german!
But I think my english is so good as your german...

ALPHA wrote:Hervorragend!!!!!!!!!!!!

ALPHA

...only one post is missing and then...
11111

At the splinter guards it goes on. Previously had the old holes to be closed.



Thereafter were the fixing points mounted to the splinter guards. For that were little angles from a brass sheet cut, folded, drilled and soldered.



Thereafter were the "welding lines" cleaned and now the splinter guards ready to mount.





At this point only placed loose; view from behind...



…from the front…



…left…



…and from the right side.



Then again a few little unexciting changes. The lifting hooks at the armor from exhaust pipes were for me to big.





Another little change at the front hatches in the upper hull. The front hatches are to open, but they wiggle also very. So I made a copy of the upper hull front area from a 1,5 mm thick polystyrene plate and glued this plate under the upper hull.







At the backside receive my tank an additional reinforcement; here pictures...





So much for today…

hotte8487 wrote:
...only one post is missing and then...
11111

Took a short break when that happened...Back now ...And will say you haven't lost your keen eye for detail


ALPHA

As I'd mentioned I've placed my main switch now inside; so that I can now rework my wooden block and his holder. Starting material for the holder is a brass angle.



He was correspondingly cut out, bent and soldered. The surplus material was grinded with my Dremel; the remaining part was this here...



A blank was made from beech wood and laid in the brass frame for fitting...



Thereafter was built the hinge for the holder from 3 mm copper sheet stripes; for the counter side the eye bolt and the holder from brass.



Then was bent the copper stripe, received a hinge bolt and was mounted.



The handle is still missing...



...he was cut from a rest of copper sheet...



...a handle of steel wire and the copper sheet bent...



…and both parts were mounted.



The hole in the rear wall was closed and the wooden block placed in the holder.





The damaged zimmerit coat will be repaired later...



So much for today…

Hi Hotte

super build, as always

referring to the wood for the jack, as far as i know this was not one single piece of wood, but three, joint by the two metal strips

this is easy to do, only marking the wood enough deep, and then with oils it will give the impression of 3 parts

best regards

Unreal