Heavy Metal Kingtiger (KT) by Torro Part 1

[Saxondog]

Could you describe the Exhaust pipe construction in a bit more detail? Did you use sand inside the tubing to prevent crimping when bent or formed? Does the tubing ride through the flange and the flag is actually cosmetic or did you braze the tubing to the flange?

I'm working on a King Tiger project and the rear exhaust are at issue,I would like some guidance from you as your modifications look excellent and seem to be functional,or could be functional for attachment to a smoker unit.

Also are you using the stock axles? Or have you considered tapping the control arms and using M3.5 Shoulder type bolts?

This modification was done on my Tiger(ASIATAM HULL) and my Henschel King Tiger(TAMIYA HULL) with excellent wheel stability as the result of the solid fitment.

Do you know the weight of your tank at this point or have you considered the weight and the effect on the drive train?

Thanks for sharing your build,it is very interesting and you have demonstrated a high level of skill and design ability.Excellent work sir!

[hotte8487]

Hello saxondog,
I’m glad that you like my KT.
Before I started with the detailing, I've looked around in many forums to get ideas. This was only my second tank model what I want to rebuild.
Sorry, you do not write from which manufacturer your KT comes, is he also by Torro, or Tamiya or a scratch built one?
In a Dutch forum I found then what I was looking for. Many good Photos from the conversion of a king tiger from an excellent hobbyist. Look at his photos, which answers so many of your questions. He is building a Tamiya KT; for my Torro KT were always necessary adjustments.
So sand for bending tube or expensive tube bending you don't need, the answer is quite simple, the pipe is repeatedly sawed and carefully bent. Then of course everything is soldered and sanded and finished. The pipes have continuity, so they could also smoke. Unfortunately I have no photos of the construction of my exhaust system, but this one from the original state.

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It didn’t look good, that’s why the rebuild.
Look at the thread in the forum as well as his collection of photographs, should you have questions, add them to me. If you have problems to opening the sides, let me know. Here the links:

Link forum: http://www.battletanksnederland.nl/phpB ... f=9&t=1166

Link photos: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v237/ ... 2QQtppZZ24

My torsion bar bearings are now attached with hexagon screws, which can tighten more. The original torsion bars I have now changed for these ones from impact:

Link: http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... :7249.html

However, everything fits for Tamiya, for Torro must be made changes. How it works now I want to show the promised video.

Until then

[hotte8487]

The two tow cables and the track cable should be removeable, but also so tight that nothing is lost during outdoor use. The tow cable holders are from accessoires and slightly modified fixed, the holders of the track cable is a homemade solution made of brass and copper sheet.
First, I’ve reinforced both side panels from the upper hull with 1.5 mm poly plates, why can be seen immediately.

The beginning, a small piece of copper with two drillings of 1.0 mm.

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And here all 8 brackets of the track cable, each with two copper wires soldered. These are on the side wall and poly reinforcement provides the necessary support.

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After bending and drilling followed fitting, for now, it’s okay.

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So far for today, bye

[hotte8487]

The front and rear mounting for track cable are made of angle sections and sheet of brass.

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Looks mounted like this.

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Then followed the holder of the tow ropes. The holders themselves are from Accessoires, I have a little bit modified. The tow ropes are from Accessoires too, they look very good and the length fits.

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Due to better stability, I decided against etch parts for the tool holders. Here I used a mix of original and homemade bracket, such as here at shovel.

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At the sledgehammer, the axe and a crowbar, I've just made so.

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To be continued in part 7. Have a nice weekend.

[hotte8487]

As next I modified the engine hatch; she has received a tail hook, also from the accessories. Both parts are not only glued, but also bolted from the inside, well, screwed in M1.

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And the same in open state.

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The upper hull had in its original condition at the points where sprues below slight depressions in the surface, they I've puttied.

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With the turret happened next. Even the parts of each were slightly upgraded kits that are on the one hand the rear hatch and on the other hand, the shell ejection hatch. The rear hatch I've also reworked again, because the holder of the plug rather the motto: "Only look, don’t touch". Of these, once again no photo available, I’ve made a M1-bolt to an eye-bolt, drilled through the hatch, cut threads M1 and screwed the bolts.

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The assembly oft he shell ejection hatch was somewhat difficult because the turret is completely made of metal and so you must grinding so much.

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next report coming soon

[hotte8487]

It goes on... with zimmerit

Zimmerit had this kingtiger only at upper hull; on turret, on back wall and on lower hull he has none, a great mistake by Torro.
The missing zimmerit have I coined of Apoxie Sculpt and a screwdriver by hand, on the coating I worked two full days.

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After hardening have I reworked the zimmerit with a sanding file.

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Especially on the rear wall was the coating of zimmerit a great fumbling.

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But the outcome is crucial; nice to see here is the original power switch in the wooden block for the jack. The holders for the jack are still missing here, because these are modified by me. Pictures of the modified holders can you see in the next report.

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Also on the upper hull in some places I had to recreate the Zimmerit again.

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The two nuts of the track cable holder in this picture were later replaced with wing nuts.

and for the end of todays report a little cartoon

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still another deep beat and there are point deduction

[hotte8487]

In the last part I’ve announced, that I rebuilt the holders for the jack.
One time, when driving the tank outdoor I’ve lost my jack, because the jack stucks only in his holders.
Thats why I’ve modified the holders with eyebolts and wing nuts. Here is the complete rear plate after grounding.

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Here is another image from the rear plate with jack and even painted in dark yellow.

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Of course must all other pieces also disassembled and painted. The bottom panel was painted in german antirust color. All other parts will be painted in dark yellow, because it is a tank with three colors Camouflage; the theme of next part.

Under the sideplates are located the screws for torsion bar stays. Here was missing a drop thread lock.

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This photo will show you the lower hull disassembled, both side plates in dark yellow and the aluminium hull only painted in antirust color.

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After the parts were dryed, I had assembled the tank without electronics and attachments.

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Then I have carefully packed what is already inside assembled was, especially electronic components; the upper hull comes back on it and now can come camouflage.

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So then, now he’s ready for camouflage, but not today guys, for today it’s enough with heavy metal, look forward to the next report, part 10!

[hotte8487]

Hi Eastern Front,

matching to your nickname is this KT one from the eastern front, the pattern you will see in the next report, because it is the theme of next report.
A new metal Torro tank is certain a question of money, but even a good base for a great model tank.
Current I build a Tamiya Panther type G, also eastern front and when I'm diligent enough, then you will see him in this forum.
Thanks for your comment, I wish you a nice weekend!

[hotte8487]

Of particular note for the camouflage are the conditions of terrain and vegetation. I chose for Kingtiger Number 313 of the 3. s. Heeres Pz. Abt. 501 in Poland in August 1944 as role model for my KT. From the dark yellow base coat is not more much to see, but brown and green in large patches, fits very well into the pine forests of the fighting territory.

Here are three images thereof, as first this by Peddinghaus...

...which can be based on this drawing of Trojca?

And finally is here a photo of the original tank, after rail loading while changing from transport to use tracks. In this picture you can also good see, how the tank crews changed their tracks. A very easy and quick method; the rear Kingtiger pushes KT 313 simply on his use tracks.

And here now simply the photos of finished camouflage...
...I will never be a photographer...

At the moment he looks like a brand new car...
...but weathering and aging of the tank will still follow...
...in report number 11

[hotte8487]

After camouflage is followed now aging, but it does not stay too long, otherwise you’re aging faster than the tank itself.

I don't know who is guilty, I or my camera. At any rate, all my photos seem all a little bit lighter as in nature, difficult for me to say why. On my PC I've they edited; for the first impression must it be sufficient, in a later report I'll try to make it better.

I use for my tanks paints by Tamiya and and washes by Vallejo, but there are many other good products.
It's a question of believing...

I use also pastel chalks and oil paints in combination with white spirit, but it's needed also a little bit experience. Maybe it is better, you've a testobject to try it out. My most important experience for special aging and weathering effects is: "Less is more!"

Although my role model tank is from Peddinghaus, I decided against their decals. Why? On another tank with zimmerit coating I'd try many methods to softening the decals; unfortunately the results were not acceptable. For a correct fit on Zimmerit would the decal have to stretch about three times, I think it’s impossible. Or is there a miracle cure for it?

Howsoever, I've made them with my airbrush gun and some homemade stencils.

Okay, here are the pics

After the drive to operational area in Poland by summer sun dusty pine and birch forests the tank looks so.

But what is a tank without crew?
It goes on in the next report.