M4A1 Sherman - 2nd Armoured - Carentan

[grim_marmazet]

By pure chance I managed to find a picture of a Sherman from the 2nd Armored Division, 66th Tank Regiment. The same regiment that came to the aid of the 101st Airborne on 13th June 1944 at the Battle of Bloody Gulch, outside Carentan. The exact moment I wanted a tank from!


I can't say for certain this tank was there, or even if this picture is from that specific date, but it gives me enough data to go on, even a serial number!

This is going to be a fun build!

Cheers,
Rik

[grim_marmazet]

Got a little more done over the last couple of days. It's nice to have a new Tamiya kit to build!

I filled all the original holes on the lower hull for the idler, and return rollers;


I added the weld between the lower hull and the sponsons;


I also added the rear access ports on the sponsons. I have no idea what these were for, but i've seen several references for them;


I stuck on the Schumo styrene back board as well. It's not entirely needed, but gives good strength to the rear of the hull;


Finally, I added several bits of lower hull detail. I cut the VVSS bogie mounts out of the bottom of the Mato hull, shaped and sanded them to thickness, and attached them to the bottom of the hull. Apart from one picture Andy sent me, the only pictures of the underside I could find were from other model kits. I used all the features that were common to every M4A1 kit bottom I could find. All I need now is some styrene angle strip between the rear two bogie mounts, and some bolts for the mounts and rear engine access panel.



I used the hubs from the unused suspension to make the ports on the bottom;


It's not a perfect replica, and the nuts to hold the gearboxes will be there, but it's close enough.

Hopefully i'll have more to show, if the postman arrives with the bits i've ordered.

Cheers,
Rik

[grim_marmazet]

More details have been added today. I had a day off so sat down and got the rear panel nearly finished.

After a considerable amount of careful drilling, sanding and scraping I managed to hollow out the exhausts, and mount them on brass tube ready for a smoker;



I used some photo-etch butterfly nuts left over from the Aber Tiger set to add some extra detail to the air filters;


I used some tow shacle attachments from an HL Pershing (i'll be using the shackles once they're tidyed up, and the hull's painted). I also took the towing hitch from the Mato hull, and used that, the pictures of 2nd AD Shermans I can find seem to have them;


Last, a shot of the rear. I think I may relocate the tow shackle attachments a bit further up the hull, the pictures i've seen seem to show that;


Cheers,
Rik

[fv432]

excellent start Rik

[grim_marmazet]

Thanks for the comment Rob!

I've finished the lower hull and rear panel detailing, weld seams and access panels, then whacked on a coat of primer;



Unfortunately, I can't do anymore until I can get more parts. I should be ordering the cast hull, transmission cover, 75mm gun and M34A1 mantlet next week. The parts are made by Nick Aguilar, and are fantastic quality. I also should be getting the bearings and other parts to make the suspension fully functional.

At the end of the month, i'll be getting the Pershing MFU and recoil unit, and the other electronical parts I need, like the Co-axial MG, upgraded speaker, RC switch for the lights, Receiver and battery. I'm also going to change all the connections for deans connectors, and shorten wires to save space.

But for now, it's just a waiting game Hope you all like it so far!

Cheers,
Rik

[[ICE]monkey]

shes coming along nicely, nice touch with the exhausts
cliff

[fv432]

im using deans in my sherman build too way better connectors and smaller

[grim_marmazet]

I finally started on the suspension today. Its a time-consuming mod!

I got so involved in doing it, I forgot to take my usual amount of how-to pictures, but i'm in the middle waiting for everything to dry, and then I can add the spring parts. The details of this mod can be found on several threads on RCU, and was originally created by Tailend Charlie.

I started with putting 6mm x 3mm bearings in the wheels. This makes them run much smoother and should prevent wear and tear;


The pivot arms are fixed to a length of 5mm brass rod. This sits in a RC plane landing gear saddle clamp. The conical spring parts from the Tamiya kit are fixed to that;



The casing itself has some brass angle stock to make a runner (this was craftily made by cutting up a square brass tube left over from my Tiger build ), the 5mm rod on the pivot arms rests in this. The tubes from the Tamiya suspension will have the springs in them, and I plan on filling the extra space with milliput to strengthen the whole thing;


Finally, I stuck the return roller on a rod, stuck it in a drill and used it as an improvised lathe. I reduced the diameter a bit, as the originals look very over-sized;


I should be adding the wheel arms tomorrow, but the wheels themselves will stay off until they have been painted. Its not too complex, but as I said, takes a lot of time! Well, one is nearly done, 5 more to go! lol

Cheers,
Rik

[grim_marmazet]

I've started on the second one now, and will endeavour to take pictures of the process.

Credit where credit is due. I took ideas from Tailend Charlie (here) and YHR (here), combined with a few modifications due to being fairly broke, lol.

First take your bogie apart, and take the two top casings. You'll need to remove the posts inside;


You need to make some runners for inside. I used a hacked up square brass tube, as it's all I had to hand, but you can use styrene or brass channels. The key is to have it centered, and the inside width of the runner needs to be a tad over 5mm;


Next is to seperate the pivot arms and the wheel arms. I've included an intact one to show where to seperate them. On the wheel arms, make sure you leave a little bit of the pad, so the pivot arms can run on them;


The next part is the bit that gives the suspension its 'spring'. You need the tubes, springs, and conical sections from the Tamiya suspension, some type of saddle clamp, and some small screws. The saddle clamps were altered to fit the conical sections fine. You can make this bit out of metal if you choose to make it stronger;


You use the screws and a liberal amount of CA to hold the conical section and the springs to the clamp. This whole section will sit in the metal tubes which will be fixed in the casing section. This will give the suspension its flexability and movement;


Thats it until the glue drys and I get back from work, then part two will show how to fit the springs in and how to build up the arms.

Cheers,
Rik

[grim_marmazet]

Time for part two of the great Mato bogie reconstruction! lol

The next step was to shave down the return roller, then glue the two halves of the casing together. I didn't bother making the return roller mount stronger on this one, but on future projects I may;



While the glue dries on those, I made a start on the wheel arms. I sanded down the cuts, and added some styrene sections to form a channel for the pivot arm pads to run in. This will prevent them slipping off the wheel arms. I'm still considering changing the styrene for brass 'U' channel, but i'll see how it goes.
I also removed the pegs the wheels run on, and drilled some 3mm indents. I am using bearings in the wheels, so they'll be mounted on brass rod;



The pivot arms need to be cleaned up, and there needs to be a bit of a 'pad' on the end of each. A couple were too thin, so I thickened them with some styrene;


To do the next bit you need to know the width of the wheel arms so the pivot arm will sit perfectly on them. You also need to have the saddle clamp sitting inbetween the pivot arms. I used 5mm brass rod for this. The pivot arms need to be fixed to the rod, but the saddle clamp must move freely on top of it.



You may need to remove some of the inside posts on the pivot arms to get them down to the correct width;


Once you have the right width, measure the distance between the 2 runners in the casing, and cut your brass rod to length. I bevelled the ends of mine slightly so they run smoothly in the runners;


You now need to glue the pivot arms in place, leaving equal lengths of brass rod on either side. This is important, make sure the pivot arms are straight! If you don't they won't fit the wheel arms properly and will keep slipping off;


Now using your springs as a guide, glue the steel tubes from the Tamiya kit in place. This can be quite fiddly as you need to make sure the springs and pivot arms can move freely;


Lastly, once the glue is dry; you need to fix the tubes in place. I used milliput for this, but you can use resin, epoxy, its even been done with low-temp metal alloy;


Thats it for the bogie modifications today, but I do have a little more to show. I got one of the fantastic rotor shields from Ethan on RCU. I had to cut the mantlet opening open to fit it, and fixed it in place with CA and milliput. This will give a good attachment point for the 75mm gun and mantlet i'll be getting;


I also cut the bit of the bustle from the bottom section and glued it onto the top. I plan on adding recessed screws to the bottom to make it more accessable;



Cheers,
Rik