RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

jee wrote: ↑Tue Aug 26, 2025 8:39 am Can I ask where you bought this thing (maybe you have a link, I assume it is XT60)?:

It is XT60 to XT30, I bought it on Aliexpress
You can buy XT60 to XT60 as well.

Unfortunately could not find anything with both XT60 & XT30 on one board. I'm thinking of designing one at some stage with a couple of fuses and a line for the power switch.

Kaczor wrote: ↑Tue Aug 26, 2025 6:06 am Great looking model! The FT17 looks nice too.

I've got four models at home, but only two are interested in RC stuff

Great model, will be interesting to see the suspension prints.

Very impressed with the quality of the 3D printing that people seem to be achieving. The surface finish seems to be so different from the 'rough' finish that we used to see in the early days.

Regards
Dave

This is looking to be an interesting build
Cute kitty's
My cats are the same when I am doing my models

dashmole wrote: ↑Tue Aug 26, 2025 12:12 pm Very impressed with the quality of the 3D printing that people seem to be achieving. The surface finish seems to be so different from the 'rough' finish that we used to see in the early days.

Probably it was sanded

dashmole wrote: ↑Tue Aug 26, 2025 12:12 pm Great model, will be interesting to see the suspension prints.

Thank you Dave

Very impressed with the quality of the 3D printing that people seem to be achieving. The surface finish seems to be so different from the 'rough' finish that we used to see in the early days.

It is the Bambulab X1C printer, which was one of the best consumer-friendly printers a couple of years ago, and it is still a great printer.

Kaczor wrote: ↑Tue Aug 26, 2025 12:55 pm Probably it was sanded

Actually, not, I haven't sanded it yet. It was printed in 0.1mm layers, and using the 'Ironing' feature for the top layers. Plus, the printer and filament went through rigorous calibration to tune it perfectly. On the flat surfaces, it gives you great results.

I usually put the coat of automotive primer-filler first and then sand it to get the final finish. I'll soon post some parts of the suspension & drive train done this way so that you can compare.

Main drive train parts assembled, partially glued together, primed, sanded, and received a second coat of primer.

Some close-up micro shots with added small details. I modeled the Renault logo and wheel fixing bolts and printed it in resin. On micro images, you can see some 3D printing imperfections and lines left.

Sprocket and idler wheels. For a 3D printer, low-slope surfaces are most challenging to print; you can see layer steps clearly and easily. So there was a lot of sanding on the idler wheels.
On drive sprockets, I was trying to imitate casting surface finish. At the end, the wheels got one coat of zinc paint, just for fun, to see how it looks.

"I modeled the Renault logo and wheel fixing bolts and printed it in resin." YES! That is the kind of detail I enjoy even more than weathering.