RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

The plot thickens.

The K/T track is made up of two parts one link ( A Part) is a heavy part with the track horns and cleats one part (bPart) is a smaller which joins two parts A’s together.

I would suspect your tank is a little older, the nylon from which the tracks are made has become brittle and when you drive you tank the track pins pull through the part B pieces and split the track in two. This is normal for older well used K/t’s.

There is only one cure, you have to get some new tracks either the original Nylon type tracks or some metal tracks.

Don’t worry from what I have read it happened on real ones.

Ahh, thats track pins walking out.
Just due to wear and the eyes getting a bit loose allowing the pins to work their way out.
New nylon tracks will solve that.
Someone around will have some spare surely.

I have 2 Tamiya KT both running Kenny Kong metal tracks and Henntec tensioner systems. They are fantastic. That being said they are no good for jack rabbiting IR battles. You have to almost drive them like a real tank but i have had no issues running them on the Tamiya gearboxes over 3 years even with the tracks weighing 1.1kg each

Dogberry wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2024 3:27 pm The plot thickens.

The K/T track is made up of two parts one link ( A Part) is a heavy part with the track horns and cleats one part (bPart) is a smaller which joins two parts A’s together.

I would suspect your tank is a little older, the nylon from which the tracks are made has become brittle and when you drive you tank the track pins pull through the part B pieces and split the track in two. This is normal for older well used K/t’s.

There is only one cure, you have to get some new tracks either the original Nylon type tracks or some metal tracks.

Don’t worry from what I have read it happened on real ones.

Yep I will plan on getting new Nylon tracks if that’s the case mine is couple of months old tho, but I have drove it a lot tho.

Thank you

HERMAN BIX wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2024 11:35 pm Ahh, thats track pins walking out.
Just due to wear and the eyes getting a bit loose allowing the pins to work their way out.
New nylon tracks will solve that.
Someone around will have some spare surely.

Thank you, I will get new nylon tracks!

Panzermechaniker wrote: ↑Mon Oct 07, 2024 1:08 am I have 2 Tamiya KT both running Kenny Kong metal tracks and Henntec tensioner systems. They are fantastic. That being said they are no good for jack rabbiting IR battles. You have to almost drive them like a real tank but i have had no issues running them on the Tamiya gearboxes over 3 years even with the tracks weighing 1.1kg each

KT213 ruined tower.jpgKt314 field.jpg

I don’t plan on battling as of now but it’s good to now that your gear boxes don’t have any issues which is good tho. Did you also keep the wheels stock or you had to change them too? And in terms of the tracks do you just put them on or do you have to remove a track or two?

Thank you

Drive sprockets , road wheels and idler are all stock Tamiya. As others have said the Tamiya road wheels are mostly metal. I think I removed 1 track link on each side although it's been a while since I did these KTs. The Henntec works flawlessly on the Tamiya KT. I suppose if you don't really run the tanks hard you could stay stock but everybody in the club told me to ditch the original Tamiya tracks and the idlers. Considering i have never had an issue with any of my Tamiya tracks (I think on their WW2 tanks other than the KT they are the best for outdoor running) I was surprised at how poor their KT ones are. You shouldn't have any issue with the gearboxes. I know there are upgrades to beef up the gearbox shaft housings but our field is about as big a torture test that there is and knock on wood i have had no issues

Hello, for information, here is a very old link, on the possible improvement of a Tamiya KT. Personally on mine, adapted metal tracks, while retaining the existing undercarriage, without any problems? it is true that you drive more often!!!!
Link
https://www.customrcmodels.com/shop/dar ... _parts.htm

The best person to ask on this would be forgebear. Not only does he sell the upgrade but he runs a very nice tamiya king tiger so he will know what of his stock will fit it and to suit a budget if needed

You could try bending the track pins very slightly, not a lot just a bow or a bit of a kink. I have found that can cure pins working themselves out. Just a stop gap measure while you save up for some new tracks.