Removing the smoothness
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If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
Re: Removing the smoothness
USC (US Chemicals) makes a red glazing putty and so does 3M. I've used both and acetone can thin them so that you don't cover up all the details. I also use Mr. Surfacer 500, but it's not usually coarse enough for cast texture on 1/16 scale tanks without building up a bunch of layers. It's not cheap either even though it's basically primer with some grit in it which is why I use the red glazing putty mostly. I will also use the two part Bondo, but normally only when I need to span large gaps and want a less brittle product.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: Removing the smoothness
Mindstorm: There are some good ideas here, and even more when I asked a question quite similar to yours. Indeed, I did the 'cast iron effect' after primer over the original paint on a Taigen Pershing. See viewtopic.php?t=34857&hilit=Pershing, especially pages 4-8.
Re: Removing the smoothness
Casper, Armor texture can be achieved by brushing on Tamiya Airbush cleaner which is virtually the same formula as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement but Much less expensive. Then using a stiff short brush to stab and stipple the surface. I find a cheap epoxy brush works well when trimmed down. Which is a common technique used in the scale armor modeling community.


As you can see using this process removes any paint applied to the plastic so you'll be down for a full repaint after.

Then using Tamiya putty thinned with the same airbrush cleaner and randomly splotching or rough brushing it on. It dries in seconds so I let it set for like and hour then ever so lightly sand it with 1,500 grit paper trying not to smooth the surface too much just knocking down some high spots. It looks more random and can be massaged.







As you can see using this process removes any paint applied to the plastic so you'll be down for a full repaint after.

Then using Tamiya putty thinned with the same airbrush cleaner and randomly splotching or rough brushing it on. It dries in seconds so I let it set for like and hour then ever so lightly sand it with 1,500 grit paper trying not to smooth the surface too much just knocking down some high spots. It looks more random and can be massaged.





Last edited by MrChef on Tue Sep 17, 2024 3:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Marco Peter
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Re: Removing the smoothness
I bought some Acetone for the second try!
My problem is that I don't want to use it for 1:16, and in this case not even 1:6, but 1:1...
My problem is that I don't want to use it for 1:16, and in this case not even 1:6, but 1:1...

1:16 was my scale. Until 'Konan' came into my life... an Armortek 1:6 Tiger 1!
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.

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Re: Removing the smoothness
Who cares about the tank! I want to see your 3d printer!
Mike.
Mike.
Elbows up
- Marco Peter
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Re: Removing the smoothness
Whahahaha! Well... I guess an honest question deserves an honest reply... It's tracks I want to print! 

1:16 was my scale. Until 'Konan' came into my life... an Armortek 1:6 Tiger 1!
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.

- Marco Peter
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- Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 10:18 pm
- Location: The Netherlands
Re: Removing the smoothness
My experiments today:

I started by damaging a part of 3D print

I dilluted the car body filler with acetone before adding the hardening agent

Smeared it on
Here's the trick: Dab it with a large brush!

How it looks when dried:


Left lightly sanded, middle sanded a lot, right side untouched
Added some black paint...

After the paint dried

Added some brown paint as well

I love graphite pencils for this!

See how different the graphite sticks to different surfaces?

You can easily soften the effect

And the result of this experiment on real 80 year old German Panzer tracks:

Can you guess the track? All three?


I must say for a first try I am very satisfied!

I started by damaging a part of 3D print

I dilluted the car body filler with acetone before adding the hardening agent

Smeared it on
Here's the trick: Dab it with a large brush!

How it looks when dried:


Left lightly sanded, middle sanded a lot, right side untouched
Added some black paint...

After the paint dried

Added some brown paint as well

I love graphite pencils for this!

See how different the graphite sticks to different surfaces?

You can easily soften the effect

And the result of this experiment on real 80 year old German Panzer tracks:

Can you guess the track? All three?



I must say for a first try I am very satisfied!
1:16 was my scale. Until 'Konan' came into my life... an Armortek 1:6 Tiger 1!
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.

-
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Re: Removing the smoothness
There ya go! Told you it was fun!
Results look great. Only 173 more links to go!
Mike.
Results look great. Only 173 more links to go!
Mike.
Elbows up
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: Removing the smoothness
Which ones are the real ones? And, for that matter, unh, are you making replica tracks? ...a real whopper of an RC Panther? Am I confused.
Ja, you betcha!

- Marco Peter
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Re: Removing the smoothness
Yeah, I collect tracks, but some are... Unobtainable. 

1:16 was my scale. Until 'Konan' came into my life... an Armortek 1:6 Tiger 1!
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.
... Now followed by a Panther G, 'Gunther'!
I'm a happy man.
