RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi MikeN,

Tracks were always what put me off, however, having seen AlwynTurners Carrier build on the site investigated what plastic / metal tracks were around that may be correct size and look something like. Turns out the 1/12th scale tank tracks for the Panther / JagdPanther were the correct width and close in pitch for this little tank, at 1/6th. Forgebear tanks had sets of HengLong in stock quite cheaply so ordered 2 sets (4 tracks in effect) as my run is longer than the 1/12 boys. To be honest was surprised by how good they are and reasonably strong. Think they will be ok for general running as long as I don't let the weight get too high but think I need the closed pin metal versions for longevity - not in stock now They do have winter tracks in metal in stock but need to check the overall width as may be too much.

Finally managed to get some building done in between grand children minding (playing at being a big kid !) .
Worked out the sprockets to suit the Heng Long Jagdpanther tracks that I had from ForgeBear supplies and had laser cut discs that I then filed the tooth profile to give a nice engagement. Then bored them out to fit onto a central hub etc with all the nuts and bolts to give greater realism and be closer to the original.

Some views of the body to date. Basically a 3/8th birch ply box with 2mm Ali sides and 1mm Ali sheet stuck on. Got carried away with reproducing the rivets, screws, and bolts that were used to attached panels to the angle iron main frames. !
Where panels were removable on the original they were either bolted or screwed. Some areas they used Hex heads, others countersunk (usually on the slopping areas). Basically lots of 10 BA hole tapping, lots of 1/16th and 3/64th copper rivets trying to follow pictures and drawings as best I could.
Suspension was carried on cross tubes on the bottom of the hull so did the same for the model as best I could.
Also installed the drive motors and drive shafts - made the motor mounts in wood as had plenty left over and was quite satisfying in a strange way - note all shafts run in roller bearings held in Ali housings, NOT wood !

"It's a 3/8th birch ply box that's then clad in 2mm and 1mm Ali sheet": that's not cheating; that's downright clever. What an impressive build!

Finally managed to get some more work done on the exterior of the little beastie. Very enjoyable to do in Ali and brass but took a bit of time as had to make 'T' sections of right sizes (silver soldered brass sections) and flat head riveting etc. Having seen how it turned out, wish I had made the drivers hatch opening. !
Dark evenings here now, so hopefully will get rapidly onto the air intake / exhaust area - from the photos and drawings I have, there are internal baffles etc and looks nicely challenging to get look right.

Cheers Dave

Absolutely great Project. Wanted Always one in scale 1:16.
Iam looking forward of your Progress.

Btw. Whats the purpose of the leafspring at the rear?

Hi Winterhammersmodels -
Thanks for the feedback, it is a lovely little tank and I'm enjoying it massively as I have to research all the details and sketch up the bits and pieces to try and make it look 'right'.

1:16 is a great scale, I was originally looking for the TAKOM kit as a Xmass present to myself last year as it looked a lovely build, but I left it too late and couldn't find anything apart from the odd iffy on on eBay.

I also was unsure of the rear spring as the photos I took of the Bovington MKVI were pretty lacking in that area. I managed to get the Tank Museum plan pack which, along with a lot of searching on the internet, showed a singing arm link to the rear bogie assembly. This along with a 'stop-in-a hole-in the bogie casting' that then limits and helps control the amount the rear bogie can swing and hence maintains the track tension (I think !)

Hopefully the attached photos from the Tank Museum plan pack and the Australian full-size rebuild will make it clearer ....

Thanks you for the Pictures. I think the leafspring is a limiter too.
Perhabs to improve a unstable driving condition.
Without IT the Tank would wobble too much.
Early Designs of the light Tank do nose stops, when you hit the Break to hard.
Best regards from Germany

I think looking at your 1:6 they would be big enough for 1/16

Completed the exhaust baffles internals, brackets and yet more riveting ! Slowly but surely using up my stocks of 'scrap' brass sheet....