RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Wardaddysdaddy wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 10:50 pm Crystals ordered. Are the batteries all the same for these models?

In a word, no.
The one you have pictured is the type that comes with the newer versions, like the new Sherman.
Did you receive a charger with the old Tiger? It may not be compatible with that type of battery if it's the original that came with the tiger.
In all honesty, if you intend to run these tanks often, it's best to purchase a multi (charges all types) charger, and more powerful batteries for longer running.

A charger like this.
iMAX B6 Charger for Lipo NiMh Li-ion Ni-Cd RC Balance Charger with Discharger 714367586588 | eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325076623685 ... KUQAvD_BwE

You should be ok with the newer 7.4v Lithium batteries in the old tank, but as Mick says - never plug the big 2 pin plug into a charger, always charge using the the smaller 3 pin connector that fits the charger that came with the newer tank. Failure to do so will leave you finding bits of battery all over your room for the next 6 months at best, and at worst, needing the services of the local fire brigade...

Yes. Newer batteries are a different construction (lithium ion) and slightly higher voltage (7.2 vs 7.4 volts). The Sherman most likely came with the newer battery. Ni-cads Ni-Mh are the older style and usually came in a stick pack. Some of the Heng Long Li-ion batteries came in a "six pack" case to fit most of the existing battery boxes. I believe the batteries are out of their shells these days. But the all use the Tamiya style connector and are interchangeable. But yes charging is different between the batteries.

Thanks for all of your input so far. New original type battery fitted and crystals fitted that match the frequency on the sticker on the tank, 27.195Mhz, still only getting flashing lights. I have taken the top off the tank and there are no obvious signs of damage or broken wires. What should I look at next?

It could be that the crystals were removed by the previous owner because the tank was completely broken. I pretty much stopped buying 2nd hand tanks unless I really know the seller as I've been screwed with basket case tanks too many times.

Wardaddysdaddy, photos of the opened tank showing as clearly as possible the innards could help show what’s up. Many of us here on RCTW have been through similar problems—even more than once.

just to confirm - you did press the little button next to the one maked G on the controller? You have to press that to start the tank.

The tank has been in a storage container with other household goods for at least 5 years. Apparently it was working when stored. I have followed start up/binding procedure as far as I can tell from You Tube videos. There is a big on/off switch under the tank and another on the turret under one of the hatches. There is also a switch under the tank marked a,b,c. This will only move to the a and b positions.

Does the transmitter have the same ABC switch? Try turning on the tank with out turning on the transmitter, does it give you the same result? Possible the transmitter does not go with the MFU in the tank.

The switch underneath is the power switch, the one under the hatch disables/enables the BB airsoft. The ABC switch is the "channel" the transmitter must be set the same.

Edit; I just noticed the first picture and your transmitter has the crystal slot (and is marked ABC). So it sounds like something is wrong with the Tx or Rx. See if you get the same result by turning on the tank without the Tx. Your best choice might be upgrading to 2.4 system. It isn't too difficult to swap and we can walk you through it. A few years ago I bought a complete tank cheaper than a new Tx/Rx.

hi guys somtimes the crystalls in the hand set miss contact make sure both sets are fully pushed in it is hard to see this on the transmitter