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The unorthodox gearbox mount, allowing the shafts to reach the bottom of the hull at that location, and align with rest. These are Panzer 3 gearboxes, I had to put in a 3mm spacer between the tip of the shaft and the sprocket hole inside in order to align the sprocket with the road wheels and return rails.
The motors were given an extra type 104 capacitor, positioned between the - and + connectors for extra low speed handling.
The two gearbox could not be side by side, no issues.
The chassis is ready for its final round of testing, after all the finetuning.
Here is a short video of the chassis in action.



Next step, the hull.

Regards, Louis

I have been watching this, and it brings back memories of an A7V build on the Australian RC tank forum from some years ago. I suspect Bix remembers it well, too. Your wizardry is amazing.
A caption you put below one of the photos about filing the tracks suggests to me something that may help my perennially hopeless case Mato M10 run better: filing all the track connectors and pads. But did you have to remove all those two-pins-per connector? There would be nothing left of my nerves.

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=18213&p=235003&hil ... nk#p235003

I do remember that build.
Gra has sadly long passed away but his effort to that point was remarkable.
I often wonder what became of his collection.........

Herr Dr. Professor wrote:I have been watching this, and it brings back memories of an A7V build on the Australian RC tank forum from some years ago. I suspect Bix remembers it well, too. Your wizardry is amazing.
A caption you put below one of the photos about filing the tracks suggests to me something that may help my perennially hopeless case Mato M10 run better: filing all the track connectors and pads. But did you have to remove all those two-pins-per connector? There would be nothing left of my nerves.

Thank you Herr Dr Professor. I noticed that when i have a track that jumps over the sprocket on a inconsistent fashion and can’t see obvious reasons, it is usually because of sharp edges on a new metal sprocket or tracks. A few heavy duty nail files with a 120 grain are good to smooth out the sharp edges to make the sprocket and tracks gently slide into each other instead of attacking or cutting into each other. The track connectors were filed without removing them. Took about 30 minutes per tracks, 10 minutes per sprocket.
Regards

Side note, those tracks are perfect for making rubber T41 type for Sherman. Pity that they are not available.

Hi,

For those who might be tempted to build ab A7V, be aware that of the 20 build, it seems that each are not totally identical, so for accuracy, it is essential to pick one vehicle from the start as reference and stick to it.

While looking at references, i noticed a main difference between two pictures of A7V. Some, like these two below have separate armored plates on the sides with tons of rivets.
The lines of rivets are clearer on this picture.


This one has no rivets in the middle and the the armor seems to be a single plate. So, there are A7V variations.
Through my books, i discovered that there were 3 main batches of A7V.

The first 5 vehicles are called First Lot Rochling. They have the single side armored plate
Next batch of 5 vehicle are called First Lot Krupp. They gave the 5 separate plates
Next batch of 10 vehicles are called Second Lot and have Rochling single plate armor.

The Meng 1/35 kit used as main reference is obviously a First Lot Krupp with separate armored plates. My model will therefore be a First Lot Krupp.

I created two new side armored plates in 1.5mm polystyrene that better match the thickness of the A7V armor, while still being firm enough. All measurements and angles were taken from the Meng kit. There is a right and left side. Although it is not obvious, the angles and dimensions of the A7V are not identical between the front and the back sections.
Comparison of one of the new side armor with the Ludwig kit at the bottom, which is a Rochling vehicle, and has some issues with shapes, number and placements of rivets and other items.
For planning purposes for the interior, i created the floor of the vehicle in the front section. The treadplate lozenge pattern matches the one seen on the Meng kit and also pictures of Mephisto.
The central section is where the raise platform is for the drivers. The back that holds the gearbox and electronics will not have a detailed interior.
Planning and measurements for the rivets take a while. There are about 450 rivets of at least 5 different types on a single sides, each one requiring analysis, measurements and placement. Because i am no longer using the Ludwig side armor, i cannot use the holes to insert resin or metal rivets, as i had planned. I therefore need to use Meng nuts because i do not want to drill so many holes.
I bought 6 packs of Meng SPS009 rivets. Not sure i have enough for the interior. I will need to order 2 or 3 more packs.
Each need to be cut from the sprue with a new blade, picked up with the tip of the blade, soaked in superglue and placed.
continuing on following post

Patience is required. It took a couple of days just for one side. Polystyrene plates and Meng nuts make the best armored plate representation.
There are different types of rivets required. The Meng kit was essential for figuring out the type and placement of each rivet. Yes, i am a rivet counter.
All rivets are installed for the left side... Looking good.
Comparing the new side armor with the Ludwig part. Notice the number of rivets used compared to the pre-drilled holes.
Testing of the look of the side armor on the chassis. Now you see where George Lucas got his inspiration of the Jawas Desert Crawler in the first Star Wars movie.
Next step, do the same again for the right side.

Regards, Louis

Holy Mother of Rivets!

The “Rivet-een” Chapel!!!
Billy Connolly would be proud of that effort

Absolutely unsurpassed attention to detail! Always a joy to follow your build threads.