RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I just upgraded from an Anet A8 to a Sidewinder X2, and for detailed parts I have an Anycubic photon mono X which is awesome. I'll let you know what's going on with the X2 when I've tested it well...I only received it today

So I'm looking at an Ender 3 V2 to get as my first 3D printer. Cost really isn't a big concern for me, but I was also looking at the CR Touch Auto Bed Leveling kit, the dual z axis screw kit, and a direct drive extruder (in case I want to do flexible filament). Just wondering if maybe there is a better printer option by the time you add all the upgrades? Not looking to do any resin printing....yet. I'm willing to pay a little more to get a solid printer.

I like the Carbonium bed of the V2 for it's supposed ease of use for a newbie. I may not do the extruder upgrade right away as it probably isn't needed right now, but the dual z axis screw kit will probably be ordered right away as it looks to be needed if additional weight is put on the z axis. I'm not looking for a printer I have to tweak and tweak and tweak to get it to run right.

I looking print the T-35 tank, hedgehogs, dragon's teeth, speaker enclosures, control board holders...stuff like that for now.

Thoughts?

If you are considering an ender 3 then take a look at the ender 3 max, it has a much bigger print bed and is very reasonably priced. Whichever printer you choose you will have to adjust and tune it, as the printers are never run before despatch. Personally I would go with a glass print bed, and once you have levelled it, it shouldn't need adjusting unless you change the print nozzle, so an auto bed levelled will just be something else to go wrong and require maintenance. Also with a dual z axis drive you will need to constantly check and adjust it as otherwise if and when it goes out of synchronisation your prints will be defective.

I have a CR-10 and an ender 3 max and provided you get your x axis correctly adjusted then you shouldn't need the extra z drive, although if you do mount a direct drive extruder then probably the dual z drive will be required due to the extra weight on the x axis bar which could cause drooping.

As regards add ons, I would suggest Capricorn Bowden tube and a dual gear extruder as necessary upgrades, and very few printers come with those as standard.

Good luck with your planned purchase and don't be afraid to ask for advice or assistance in setting up.

Alwyn

After doing some tests with the Sidewinder X2, I can confirm that it is an accurate, fast and quiet machine. I am extremely satisfied

AlwynTurner wrote:If you are considering an ender 3 then take a look at the ender 3 max, it has a much bigger print bed and is very reasonably priced. Whichever printer you choose you will have to adjust and tune it, as the printers are never run before despatch. Personally I would go with a glass print bed, and once you have levelled it, it shouldn't need adjusting unless you change the print nozzle, so an auto bed levelled will just be something else to go wrong and require maintenance. Also with a dual z axis drive you will need to constantly check and adjust it as otherwise if and when it goes out of synchronisation your prints will be defective.

I have a CR-10 and an ender 3 max and provided you get your x axis correctly adjusted then you shouldn't need the extra z drive, although if you do mount a direct drive extruder then probably the dual z drive will be required due to the extra weight on the x axis bar which could cause drooping.

As regards add ons, I would suggest Capricorn Bowden tube and a dual gear extruder as necessary upgrades, and very few printers come with those as standard.

Good luck with your planned purchase and don't be afraid to ask for advice or assistance in setting up.

Alwyn

seconded (apart from the dual gear extruder bit hahahaha, i had no end of issues with those wearing themselves out, bad design in my eyes, the stock metal upgrade item works well especially if you get the one with the larger fitting for the ptfe tube as it will not slip like the smaller items)

I would defo start simple and work up, learn the ropes from as basic as you can as they gained knowledge and experience will come in handy when diagnosing faults later
don't play about with auto level bla bla, learn how it works and do it yourself

I have an old Tronxy X3 and it was cheap I have had it a few years and there is not much left of the original printer lol
I hope my new Anicubic mono x doesnt need so much messing about with.

Just finished building an enclosure for it as I was having issues with petg and it being so cold where the printer is.

After a lot...and I mean A LOT of research I decided to go with a Qidi i-Mates printer. I arrived today and took me about an hour to unbox and calibrate. First test print is printing on the printer as I write this...

I will have to say that the i-Mates hasn't disappointed me yet. I printed 3 Open Panzer TCB cases so far and some stuff for my significant other for her little projects. One TCB case had a single layer that delaminated a bit one axis, but it was fixed with a little CA glue so the print is still usable. I'm still tweaking some settings on it, but I've already printed about 15 hours on it with no real issues. Stringing is pretty much non-existent and the initial out of the box print quality is very good. Loading up some ABS now to print some accessories for it. Then I need some sunshades for my HL mushrooms...and then...the list goes on and on...

Finished off my first roll of PLA and the test spool they sent so I decided to give ABS a go...

Right out of the printer after cooling in the printer.





And the bottom after the supports were removed.