RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

A few days off the tank, but back to it this evening.

So the issue I wrote about with the torsion bars turned out to be a non-issue. With the judicious help of a very small Vise-Grip I got the suspension together. Those little clips like to go "ping" and fly around, so lucky that Torro include some spares! It's interesting (to me at least) that the photo Kaczor posted of the stock Taigen suspension has little plastic retaining collets, whereas this kit has brass ones.

The secret to making this easier was to not follow the instructions. They say to put all the axles on both sides of the hull and then fit the torsion bars. I found it much easier to fit the torsion bar to the axle (making sure it was fully engaged with the Vise-Grips) and then put that sub assembly through the hull into the retainer.





Then the locking mechanism release, which is quite clever as it appears to strengthen the tank body quite a lot as well:



Then the suspension cover plate and gearbox mounting plate. Mine deviated a little bit from the pictures in the instructions, so I presume I have slighter newer (or maybe older?) parts, but everything was pretty obvious as where it should go and all the screw holes lined up just fine.



Then for something completely different, I started on the tracks. That's kind of repetitive. The instructions are a bit vague as to whether you need 94 or 95 links per track, so I did 94. If needed, I can always add later which will be easier than trying to shorten. I got one track done and then my wife begged for mercy from the hammering....





That's it for today. It's Burns' Night and I need to cook a Haggis!

Thank you for the build pics. Good quality and well lit!

A question about painting if you will....

My general plan (which may well exceed my capabilities) is to prime the whole thing, then give it a coat of red oxide, then a coat of chipping medium, then dunkelgelb followed by green and redbrown camo.

I have Mr. Metal primer for the metal parts, but am wondering what to use for the plastic. If I do all the metal first with the Mr. Metal, can I then just go over the entire model with a good red oxide, hitting both plastic and metal at the same time? And what would you recommend as a good red oxide primer? I have an airbrush, so would prefer to use this rather than a rattle can, but if rattle can is going to best, then so be it.

I plan to pull all the rubber tyres off the wheels and paint them off the model (the wheels, not the tyres), and paint the lower hull, upper hull and turret all separately up to the dunkelgelb stage, then assemble it and do the camo.

Sooo......chipping medium (Vallejo). If I put some of this over the red oxide in areas that I want to chip, how long do I have to get the rest of the paint on and do the chipping? I have read conflicting views - some say its a matter of hours and other say days. I am not really comfortable in putting the chipping medium, base dunkelgelb and camo all in the same day given it's cold in my spray area and I like to give paint plenty of time to dry between coats.

Anyway, maybe I am overthinking it, but all advice would be appreciated!

I have used Halfords Red Plastic Primer rattle can for all my builds. Never had any problems. I know jarndice recommends changing the nozzle for a Tamiya one, but that assumes you have a Tamiya rattle can to get it from.

silversurfer1947 wrote:I have used Halfords Red Plastic Primer rattle can for all my builds. Never had any problems. I know jarndice recommends changing the nozzle for a Tamiya one, but that assumes you have a Tamiya rattle can to get it from.

Maybe I should just buy a Tamiya can, use that and then I'll have the nozzle for the Halfords can if I need more!

I've got a Mig Ammo One Shot primer that I could use, but it's "brown oxide".....so I'm kind of leaning against it unless there's something I don't know and the brown oxide is a better match for early Tiger primer. They don't seem to sell a red oxide variant though...

I'm sure if you ask ten different people you will get ten slightly different answers. Personally I prime all my large metal parts with a hard wearing metal primer in a rattle can that I get from the local hardware shop and I hit the plastic parts with Mr Surfacer 1200 as I find it works well with fine detail. I use it in a can but you can buy it in a jar for use in an airbrush.

I can't help you with chipping medium as I tend to go fairly light on paint chips and still use the old sponge method.

B_Man wrote:I'm sure if you ask ten different people you will get ten slightly different answers. Personally I prime all my large metal parts with a hard wearing metal primer in a rattle can that I get from the local hardware shop and I hit the plastic parts with Mr Surfacer 1200 as I find it works well with fine detail. I use it in a can but you can buy it in a jar for use in an airbrush.

I can't help you with chipping medium as I tend to go fairly light on paint chips and still use the old sponge method.

Mr B_man is right, except you will probably get 11 opinions from 10 asked !!
(if not more)

Once the model is 'done' to the point of being ready to prime, use the best primer available to you, whatever the brand or source.
I find that a very aggressive genuine self etching primer, in a red/brown oxide colour (for German Tanks), is the best option...........BUT, the primer will also be subject to what top coat you want to use(and its brand & chemical make up) in case the two coats react with each other.
Now its unlikely that a well known brand of primer will be no good, but how that will go under a certain top coat is an unknown until its tried.
If you can, gather your preferred options & test them on a low risk material.
I have used the battery cover, or, the lower hull behind the roadwheels to test before going on with an unknown product.

As for chipping, Im not a user of chipping solutions, but the hairspray and sponge system work for me.
Again, try an option on a less stressful spot & see how you go.

...just a quick note of THANK YOU, adm, for posting this build. I would enjoy building one of the Torro kits, too, because as much as I have been inside these RC tanks for years, I would like to know them quite literally from the bottom up. (Of course, I did that with my home thirty years ago--dang near killed me.)

Just a quick post to say that I have not stopped this build, despite having not posted for a while.

I took some time out to build a few 1/35 scale German tank models as practice for painting the Torro. I've also been priming up the lower hull and wheels.

The wheels are a pain to paint. I degreased them, using alcohol, then airbrushed with Mr. Metal primer, then used Vallejo German Red Oxide primer. But the area where have been painting is cold and the paint has been having trouble adhering and drying properly. It looked strange on the first coat, but after a few coats is now looking great.

Anyway....slow progress but no photos right now. Lower hull and wheels primed and painted with red oxide. Now I need to do the Panzer Grey and then fit it all together. Motors and gearboxes have been test fitted and are ready to go in once the grey paint is done.

Thanks for the update. Sounds as if you’re taking your time and doing things the right way. Not sure which version you’re modeling but considering your efforts I do feel obligated to mention that only the very first 25 or so Tigers were painted grey and they were all initial production versions. I’m not sure why so many model box pictures and internet model images show them all in grey but it does a disservice to people who desire an accurate model. If accuracy is not a concern then I guess it doesn’t really matter.
Here’s my reference: https://tiger1.info/EN/Grey-Tigers.html