RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

That came along nicely! Love the lights; they seem pretty simple in thought, but add so much to the overall aesthetics of the tank, not to mention realism!

Cheers,
Eric.

Thanks. Only waiting on some metal suspension and wheels at this point. After that it will be ready for paint. For a cheap tank I picked up on a whim it has turned out quite nicely I think. As you can see I like different types of connectors. That way I can't cross plug anything into the wrong thing. I also found a switch suitable to be used so no more plugging the battery in to power it up.

Shootermcgraw wrote:Wow, you really beefed this thing up! Great job on your build brother thanks for sharing....

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Also nice presentation on your video..... I really like how you added the blinker lights, this is exactly how I added them to my leopard that I am waiting to complete.

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The TCB doesn't have a right and left blinker function, but it does have a blink function on the AUX light port so I thought it would be fun to wire it that way. The 4 LEDs on the front fenders were just indents with paint in them to simulate lights. I drilled them out to 3mm to add the LEDs to them. I could've used any number of websites to calculate each circuit and put a single resistor inline with each set of lights in series, but for simplicity sake I put a resistor inline with each LED. I would have to keep too many resistors of different resistance handy to do it in series. Wired in parallel I can use the same 2 resistor types for all the circuits. The white lights regardless of 3mm or 5mm use one value resistor and the colored ones all use a different one.

The TCB have this Function.
It is a little bit hidden: Set this Function Trigger for blink by steering: for manual blink only asign a switch or for both do it additional: everything is possible

Hmmm....well I stand corrected, but now that it's all wired I think it will stay the way it is. I kinda like the "hazard" lights blinking. I still have two more TCBs for projects so I'm contemplating putting them in my two Tamiya tanks since I really hate the Tamiya joystick/switch/trim setup. I'm also not a fan of how they drive using stock electronics. I did buy the Tamiya TCB conversion wiring kit with my TCBs so it wouldn't be hard to install them. I guess that would be a topic for a different thread.

Couple of questions tankme? Where did you locate the engine screens and was the Tamiya battle system a plug and play with your board?

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I got the engine deck screens from AliExpress. Their search engine is horrible so less is more with them. I typically search on "ZTZ" and that's it. If you try to narrow it down more it gives you all kinds of stuff you aren't looking for.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3301224 ... web201603_

The screens can also be had from MatoMart in Canada.

https://www.matomart.com/prodview.php?p=3668

The Tamiya TBS Apple requires either a Tamiya or a Clark mount. I used a Clark mount in this tank. I think Impact used to make a base also, but not sure if they still have any stock left. The Clark mount uses a standard 5 pin JST type connector that did plug directly into the Open Panzer TCB board. The Tamiya base which comes with the apple could also be used with my board as I have a cable conversion kit that converts the Tamiya connector to the JST type. I do have a JST pin crimper tool so I could also cut off the Tamiya connector and re-pin it for a JST, but I prefer to preserve factory connections whenever possible. The Tamiya base is much larger and better quality than the Clark base, but I didn't feel like hacking the crap out of the Tamiya base to get it to fit. I felt much better hacking the cheaper Clark base. I did use hot glue around all of the Clark wires as they have been known to break off or move out of the connector causing poor connections. Since you are in the US the Clark base can be had from these guys: https://dakrctank.com/shop/tbu-base/.

The Tamiya TBS kit will come with the apple, the IR emitter, and the Tamiya base. Compatibility of the Tamiya TBS depends on the control board you are using. It will not work with the stock HL electronics.

Thanks I appreciate the information....

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Finally got the camo colors changed to what I wanted. I think it looks better than the colors HL used. After this I need to seal it, decal it, and weather it a little. The color that looks blackish is actually a really dark green. I also have one issue that is happening on two my TCB boards - the IR doesn't seem to be firing. I've reversed the leads to the LED - no dice. It will take hits, but not give them and it's on both boards I have running right now. I tried the Tamiya IR emitter and the one recommended from Digikey. Kinda think it's a configuration problem in the TCB at this point, but I've looked over all of the settings and they seem right. Working on that issue tonight.