RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Reference guide for remote

I have two Tamiya tanks and I really hate the Tamiya MFU control situation. I tried the Clark TK40 and I can reprogram it to do things they way I want them. I seriously think I'm going to sell the Tamiya electronics and replace them with Clark boards.

You can have realistic crawling even with stock HL ot Taigen electronics. Gearbox is the key. With proper ratio you got big torque, slow movement and less power consumption. Unfortunately you can't achieve that with stock gearboxes, even with those fancy colored advertised as "pro". Gearbox need to be modified of changed to planetary.
Example - test of stock HL with modified cheap plastic gearbox (last gear modified by my dad):
And here is example of my friend's tank with planetary gearboxes (plus angular gear). Clark TK60 board used. Frame for motors is 3D printed.

tankme wrote:I have two Tamiya tanks and I really hate the Tamiya MFU control situation. I tried the Clark TK40 and I can reprogram it to do things they way I want them. I seriously think I'm going to sell the Tamiya electronics and replace them with Clark boards.

If one of them is a King Tiger set, I will take one !

morning chaps

I too, are on the side of 'bunny jumping haters'

First thing i did, was to swap electronics to the Elmod Pro, and after this, i swaped the engines too, to the 390 model, with more torque, and now the cats can crawl even on a climb

the next thing i dind't like, was to have the neutral in the center of the stick travel, I always found it difficult to locate the center wearing FPV googles, so, as an almost hobby grade radio programing handicapped man I am, i asked for some help to program my radio to achieve my goal, that is, I've 'reverted' the THR stick to airplane mode, so idle is full back stick, and from there to the 100% gas you need to move the stick from full down to full up, I've some curves too so it's not lineal.

for reverse the tank i have to 'put neutral' first, moving the stick full down to idle the engine, then flip a sw, and from there the same game as running forward, so moving the stick from down to up will run the tank backwards.

Also i went a bit further. As the tanks have two speeds, i mean, they have max speed offroad, and max speed on road, i checked on the technical manuals these speeds for the tiger and for the KöTi, scaled them to 1/16 and limited the max speed of the vehicles in the TX mixer, and now i have another switch to select road speed or cross country speed. This feature i I have to admit that I don't even use it, some from time to time

it may sound a bit confusing at first, but i got used very quickly to this way, and i like it. Even so, i have to say that one thing is drive on the one's home floor, and another on uneven terrain, i mean, at home you can control very precisely when the tank start to move and this is done smootly, because the tensile strength is so low, but on the outside it is almost impossible, so you have to add more 'gas' to overcome resistance to movement, and more ofthen that not, the tank start to move with a little jerk and the you have to low the throttle with too much care to not go to neutral!

some examples, this video is from when i just installed the elmod



in these two, my 2 tanks crossing a 23cm wide bridge, with a fall of 30cm over the river (you need some guts to cross it with FPV )





and the last one, the tiger driving on a grass slope, compare it's movements with the tamiya sherman (with MDF on it)



as i said, out of my home floor, it's a bit difficult to control the amount of gas to start the movement

oh, and btw, one feature that has been shown to be dangerous for me, is the momentum, in these narrow tracks and bridges... so i've lowered this to the minimum.

best regards

The way Jussek is proposing is a great way of driving. It is the "basic" way of my virtual gears idea, but it gives a very good control of the model, and it is also cool for those of us who dont like the self centering driving stick.

Jussek,

That bridge is definitely robust enough to support Tiger's! But she is a wee bit narrow! You have an amazing "playground"! I agree about the momentum. I have it set at a very realistic point on my Elmod, but in the tight confines of the basement I must really watch myself!

Cheers,
Eric.

I use only IBU and HL 6.0/6.1. IBU 2 has a special setting in the ini-config file that can enable “momentum” that works rather well, to say the least. Though, the slower braking ( very realistic. The faster You go, the longer the braking distance) dìd cost me a barrel or two, when thinking ‘oh.. I can easily brake before it hits the wall...”

Last-gen HL 6.xx controllers also do an impressive job of creeping very slowly. They even have a setting for ‘old tanks’ ( runs slow and very controllable) and ‘new tanks’ ( runs fast as a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs) switched from the remote.
Would be nice, though, if HL made a setting where ‘superspin’ can be turned off. It still annoys me when trying to steer somewhat sharp, it suddenly starts whirling around like a spinning top...

Hello, I find that to get a good realism of movement for a tank, there are several parameters. The first is the gearbox, which in addition to being silent must offer good proportionality. For this, double differential gearboxes (type PDSGB) are the best for me. Then, it is also necessary to have an electronic board which manages the engines flexibly, and which allows good quality sounds. Elmod is good for all the management of the tank, although I find that the sound quality could be better (I'm talking about the sampling, not the sounds present on the micro SD card).

Mentioning the gearbox, indeed, that’s a major part of it, but also motor-choice. Heng Long tanks have always come with hugely differend 380 winds, almost randomly inserted. I got a box full of them. I sorted them by rpm ( got an i.r. Rpm meter) and they vary from just 8500rpm to a blistering 25000rpm.

My preferred motor/esc-combo for “old” tanks still must be the Igarashi 5-poles, that run about 7500rpm on 7.2 v, and IBU2 / TK 6.0/6.1 The Igarashi’s are 5-slot motors that seem too weak on paper ( because their nominal current is àctually 12v) , but that’s deceiving. They have impressive torque on lower rpm’s, and are as smooth as an electric motor can be. And for a bit of speed, One can just up the voltage, and stìll have that buttersmooth control ànd super low power-use. They take about 2- to 3 Amps on max efficiëncy, where the 3-slot standard 380’s can gobble up to 7, or even 8 amps..

There’s a reason that people are changing the ‘old-fashioned’ 3-slot armature 540’s for 5-slot armature 540’s in 1/10 crawlers.

And about sound? Yeah.. they’ve been 16khz mono samples for, like, forever. Storage cannot be the problem. 8gig mini flashcards cost peanuts nowadays.. No idea what’s going on here. Though, truth be told, with the right speaker, housing, and a separate amplifier, it sounds really good, even with the rèally low sample-rates used.