Milliput questions
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If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
Re: Milliput questions
I find it brittle when used as weld lines, but that is good if you want to go back with a sharp exacto and shape them once it's dried. I don't like to use Milliput to do big jobs. For that I go to the local hardware store and get the plumbers 2 part epoxy putty cheaper. Plus the plumbers stuff is used for times when I want it to dry quick.
Derek
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Re: Milliput questions
No need to worry about it going off Mick, it comes in a two part putty so will only go off when mixed together. I have had some for years at a time and although it can get a little dry you can just hydrate it with a couple drops of water and then it will knead together just fine. I usually mix a little at a time so I do not make too much which will go to waste, you can always mix more if needed but you can't unmix itI'm holding back from purchasing it till I have a few reasons to use it around the same time, because I know I'll either misplace it, or it'll go off before I next want to use it.


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Re: Milliput questions
I used it a lot from reshaping turrets (up to 1:8th scale), Zimmerit on a 1:16 King Tiger and a lot of smaller custom stuff on 1:35 builds.
Main two things I found to make things easier were to warm up the two parts of the epoxy on a radiator before mixing as it makes it mix so much easier and always keep fingers and tools moist with water to stop sticking. It has a reasonable length of cure time to give you time to work before it starts setting and keeps shape while it is setting. As others say, once dry it is rock hard and can be filed, sanded and drilled as required.
Main two things I found to make things easier were to warm up the two parts of the epoxy on a radiator before mixing as it makes it mix so much easier and always keep fingers and tools moist with water to stop sticking. It has a reasonable length of cure time to give you time to work before it starts setting and keeps shape while it is setting. As others say, once dry it is rock hard and can be filed, sanded and drilled as required.
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Re: Milliput questions
Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated.
And I think it may be useful to others too
And I think it may be useful to others too

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Re: Milliput questions
I suppose you could make scale shovels, hammers etc., using a core of wire (staples, paperclips etc.,) although I've never tried it. I use is for weld lines, filling unwanted holes, surfacing and partial fabrication of missing, or broken parts. It really doesn't shrink, but does take a couple of days to cure throroughly. It's very versatile (wish I could say the same for me...Son of a gun-ner wrote:Thank you Roy. I know the things the company claim that it does etc, but I wanted to make sure they weren't exaggerating like some companies do with their products.
And yes, like most things that need to adhere, a key is key![]()
As for the shovel, it was the first example that came into my head just before a hammer when I was thinking of flimsy delicate items on one of our tanks
Edit, as for companies claims, I must have used every known type of filler during my life, from plaster types to two part resin based wood fillers, and most have stated they don't shrink. Sadly I've never come across a filler that doesn't shrink.

(it really is waterproof), to more substantial stuff. Here's an example of standard grade Milliput being used to rebuild the birdbath birds, I mentioned. A storm knocked it off it's pedestal, and the birds shattered. Roughly 30% of the bits went AWOL, and thus the Milliput is acting not only as a bonding agent, but also as a layered sculptural filler. Yeah, it's not the greatest repair, but it was like putting a Mill's Bomb/Hand Grenade back together (I've actually tried that..





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Re: Milliput questions
Not too ambitious at all, Jim. You can use Milliput putty pretty much like Plasticine, and I'm sure it could also be used in a properly lubricated mould (by 'lubricated', I don't mean 'Jim Beam-ed'). It could even be used to form a mould itself.Jimster wrote:I bought some 1/16 skulls with the intent of creating a totally destroyed Tiger1 with a “ghost crew” driving the smoking flamed out wreck around the Eastern Front in an attempt to shield German armor from Bolshevik enemies. Thought I could use this putty for ribs and finger bones and such.
Maybe I’m being too ambitious for the capabilities of this product.
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Re: Milliput questions
Hi I've used Milliput in it's various grades on numerous projects and it covers a multitude of sins. Key thing to remember is to keep your hands and tools wet, and to get a nice smooth surface wet the milliput while shaping/smoothing. I have used the white fine variety extensively for weld lines and I apply a very thin line to where the weld goes, wait until it starts to harden and press it down and shape it/indent it with a small implement like a dentists pick. Pressing it firmly while shaping should ensure that it sticks to the surface which must be free of dust and sanding debris, if in doubt use a wet wipe to clean first and then let it dry.
Altogether a marvellous material to work with.
Alwyn

Altogether a marvellous material to work with.
Alwyn


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Re: Milliput questions
Thank you Roy
You could have at least painted the white bits grey
Not that I've got anything against seeing white bits

You could have at least painted the white bits grey

Not that I've got anything against seeing white bits

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Re: Milliput questions
Thank you Alwyn
The more I hear, the more I'm wondering why I never used this before

The more I hear, the more I'm wondering why I never used this before

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Re: Milliput questions
Son of a gun-ner wrote:Thank you Roy![]()
You could have at least painted the white bits grey![]()
Not that I've got anything against seeing white bits


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