Jagdpanther build

[43rdRecceReg]

At least you got the essentials! Those Tamiya Gearboxes are getting hard to find these days. My Jagdpather is only running now because I 'borrowed' the gearboxes out of my Tamiya Panther.
At least the interior hasn't been abused as much as the exterior. Right now, though, it looks as if it has a bad case of psoriasis, or chickenpox. With patience, and the right treatment, you should be able to get all that eye-toxin crud out of the way, however.
The Tamiya Jagdpanther can be a really cool looking piece of kit, when treated with respect and careful painting. Right now, it looks as though Jackson Pollock has been let loose on it, after a skinful.
But...you have the makings a great (and hopefully, bargain) Tank Destroyer there. Enjoy rescuing it

[LordPanzer]

Did a bit of preparation work tonight. Removed all the set screws, wheels and the painted rubber tires . The rubber does not seem to be too dried out so I'm going to wash everything with some water and dawn dish soap to remove the paint from the rubber and just a good cleaning for the road wheels. These should be able to just primed and repainted. Also removed all that I could without damaging from the sides of the casemate. The tracks, tow cables, tools and such. Im thinking of stripping the paint off the the casemate instead of sanding as it has a very out of scale and uneven heavy texture, dare I say sloppy. What would some of you recommend to strip paint safety off the Tamiya plastics? I have heard others use oven cleaner or something a little stronger such as a acetone based product? The spare road wheels, rubber if needed and idler should arrive by Friday. Much more to do. Obviously. Just a quick update thus far. Thanks for checking in.

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[43rdRecceReg]

Well, the JP's finally in caring Hands! Removing that hideous finish is going to take some careful thought, and experiment, however.
If the tank butcher used acrylics, then you could probably use acrylic thinners to remove the surface gradually. Whatever you do, try your chosen cleaner out on a small patch of the tank- before launching into a major paint purge. I don't use enamel paints, but again if they were used, the appropriate thinners, used judiciously, should get the results you need.
The very last thing you want to do is dissolve your new foundling. Experiment on some detachable (and replaceable) part- like a wheel, for instance.

[Soeren]

Axels is a great shop and as mentioned pretty much the only source for Schumo parts these days. My only issue with Axels is their crazy international shipping costs. It's almost as if they don't want to ship outside Germany. Last time I purchased parts from them I used a German mail forwarding company (https://www.mailboxde.com/) and it worked out much cheaper.

Thanks. Last time I priced them to ship to the USA its was 38 euros. That's crazy! Like you said it's like they don't want to ship out of country.

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Unfortunately having foods shipped via dhl with insurance internationally is expensive. It is not that they don’t want to ship, but online shops can get into trouble when goods don’t arrive at their customers door and the shipping was not tracked. I can understand that matter.

[Soeren]

Did a bit of preparation work tonight. Removed all the set screws, wheels and the painted rubber tires . The rubber does not seem to be too dried out so I'm going to wash everything with some water and dawn dish soap to remove the paint from the rubber and just a good cleaning for the road wheels. These should be able to just primed and repainted. Also removed all that I could without damaging from the sides of the casemate. The tracks, tow cables, tools and such. Im thinking of stripping the paint off the the casemate instead of sanding as it has a very out of scale and uneven heavy texture, dare I say sloppy. What would some of you recommend to strip paint safety off the Tamiya plastics? I have heard others use oven cleaner or something a little stronger such as a acetone based product? The spare road wheels, rubber if needed and idler should arrive by Friday. Much more to do. Obviously. Just a quick update thus far. Thanks for checking in.

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You have shot yourself a horribly looking bargain that you can turn into an amazing model. I doesn’t matter what it looks like now. At that scale repaints are not an issue.

Acetone will most likely eat into the plastic. Why not just sand almost smooth with a sanding sponge and apply some mr surfacer for the textured rolled steel look. As for detailing . Get yourself the ABER Panther basic set. Although you don’t use all that’s in there the basics alone you get with that set can not be had cheaper if bought from somewhere else individually. I used that on my build too. Here is a reference to that in case you are interested.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=21290

[Max-U52]

I would spray it down with EZ-Off Over Cleaner and let it sit for about 45 minutes, and then a toothbrush and some warm water should remove most of the paint and oven cleaner will not hurt plastic. In fact, this method was recommended to me by the Testors Customer Service Department. I've used it many times and know it to work well. Once the cleaner does it's job you still want to sand everything down for proper adhesion with the new paint.

Hope that helps.

[HERMAN BIX]

I would spray it down with EZ-Off Over Cleaner and let it sit for about 45 minutes, and then a toothbrush and some warm water should remove most of the paint and oven cleaner will not hurt plastic. In fact, this method was recommended to me by the Testors Customer Service Department. I've used it many times and know it to work well. Once the cleaner does it's job you still want to sand everything down for proper adhesion with the new paint.

Hope that helps.

I can back the oven cleaner theory..............BUT............WEAR GLOVES THAT CAN WITHSTAND THE CAUSTIC>
If you dont, it hurts like bloody hell , wrecks your skin & fingernails

[LordPanzer]

I would spray it down with EZ-Off Over Cleaner and let it sit for about 45 minutes, and then a toothbrush and some warm water should remove most of the paint and oven cleaner will not hurt plastic. In fact, this method was recommended to me by the Testors Customer Service Department. I've used it many times and know it to work well. Once the cleaner does it's job you still want to sand everything down for proper adhesion with the new paint.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Max. I have tried some Zap green cleaner and degreaser over night on 3 of the road wheels as a test. 12 hrs later and alittle scrubbing with a toothbrush and not much of a change. Going to step it up a notch and pick up some oven cleaner today test another 3 road wheels before taking on the upper casemate.

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[LordPanzer]

Thanks! Certainly don't want to eat into the plastics at all. I'll give the oven cleaner a go later today on a few road wheels and go from there. Also thanks for the recommendation for Aber PE honestly and I know I'm saying this on a forum full of master builders but really the only PE experience I have is with mesh engine deck grills. That is a skill set I really have yet to tackle. Also this JP will be a runner and RC battlefield tank so I worry that putting on to much fragile details could be easily damaged in future.

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[Soeren]

That Panther PE was my first PE set too. Tinos easy to work with. And it is sturdy. No worries there.