RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Good Morning,
I will throw my two pfennigs worth in here. My StuG III Ausf B build is a resin Profile Line kit combined with a metal Taigen Pz III lower and a HL Tauchpanzer III deck ( confusing I know but all were required to get the right look and grill locations, etc. ) I used the excellent LocTite UltraGel adhesive and if I had any doubts about the sheer strength of a resin to resin or resin to plastic\metal piece job, I used the Loctite Epoxy. No problems with that little tracked Beauty to this day. none of the resin, plastic nor metal details have been lost.
regards,
Painless

I initial used a liquid two part epoxy on my SU-152 build to bond the 3D printed parts to the HL doner, but it didn't hold well enough. I cleaned all the epoxy off and started over. I then used superglue to hold the casemate in place while I reinforced the entire joint with a two part epoxy putty from the inside. The epoxy putty comes in a small tubes you knead together and I got it at a local hardware store. The particular kind I got was pretty cheap since it is used to fix plumbing pipe. I didn't want to use hobby grade stuff like Miliput as it's too expensive to waste. I think I spent like $6 US on two tubes of the stuff.

I've had good results with 'Plastic Fusion' for disparate materials. It's a two-part epoxy super glue, and when the items to be joined are roughed up well, makes for a super-strong bond, (claimed: 4000 psi) that can handle vibration.

Thanks chaps, this thread appeared at the perfect time for me, my Vandra Dicker Max arrived yesterday & the upper hull is made out of lots of different resin parts
Cheers
Wayne
Edit, just bought two lots of plastic fusion from eBay for £18, bargain

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"Centuwion, why do they titter so, when I introduce my fwend Dicker Max?"

Estnische wrote:"Centuwion, why do they titter so, when I introduce my fwend Dicker Max?"

Is he Woeman and lives in Woeme?

Hahahaha


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