RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

jcarducci wrote:Someone referenced your very interesting thread regarding this Puma. I'm curious what is the bevel gear set you purchased to replace the zinc gears?

I never miss an opportunity to replace a zinc gear; zinc gears are just wrong...

Good job, good informative thread. I'll be interested how this ends up. Yes I have a Puma kit or two...that I've not yet built.

Jerry

I didn't know you had an account here, Jerry. This is Crius from RCU. I can't be sure, but I think your favorite scale would be much better received here.

Max-U52 wrote:

jcarducci wrote:Someone referenced your very interesting thread regarding this Puma. I'm curious what is the bevel gear set you purchased to replace the zinc gears?

I never miss an opportunity to replace a zinc gear; zinc gears are just wrong...

Good job, good informative thread. I'll be interested how this ends up. Yes I have a Puma kit or two...that I've not yet built.

Jerry

I didn't know you had an account here, Jerry. This is Crius from RCU. I can't be sure, but I think your favorite scale would be much better received here.

Hey! Yup I don't use my account here much, not really sure why; just lazy routine I suppose. I do have a Puma in 1/10, actually 1 2/3 Pumas. I didn't
build them though, Nils Hermann did. But I will have to finish the 2/3's one... and I have lower frames for 1 more.

That said I would like to build one of the Metal Origin Puma models at some point however I'd like to get any better parts lined up beforehand..

Jerry

...... we continue to prepare everything that will be needed later. Given the reduced grip, the hands are light but numerous





The first supplies arrive:









Obviously it is not all rose flowers: the almond-eyed supplier does not take into account the exact height of the screws that secure the engine to the transmission plate. But let's not be frightened:



Now they smooth out:



Let's try to fit the new year box:



It makes a good impression: lol !: Of course it is dimensioned precisely:



Meanwhile, power the engine and see if it works .....

Hello,
very good solution for the Differentials.
What module and number of teeth do the bevel gears have?

Module 1:1, 20 tooth

I have had the Belt-Transmission too.
The Motor and the Planetary-Gear is Overkill.
It´s to heavy, take to much Place - therefor i replace it...

Ohhh I like overkill


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As the material continues to arrive:



Let's present some pieces on the frame and find that:



The new Xiaomi transmission is too high .... The engine interferes with the rib. Nothing to scare proxxon:



But who designed this model Mickey Mouse??

We will have to rework the jumpers because of the new bevel gears:





Obviously they will be painted again after making the throats

The creation of the gorges leaves some fallen on the field that must be restored with artisanal methods:



Besides, there is no rose without thorns. Let's start from the front shaft:



A view to the planetary group



To board the steering plates, simply remove the engine, not the entire transmission:



Finally some good news: cheers: continue with the rear axle. Then the jumpers and small parts for the necessary repainting are disembarked. The job is done:



The work is not without imperfections: when the bevel gears are mounted with the threaded grain, the gear itself is decentralized from the shaft. An even more precise compass, perhaps made of rectification, would be necessary but we are satisfied.

A hair of graphite grease and a minimum of break-in should make the movement more uniform.

I am very satisfied with how the 1.2 volt powered engine still drives the whole train of gears with a commitment of very low power, trying to stop the movement you can't

The first step is passed.

The second step will be, after installing suspensions and axle shafts, the phasing of the four steered axles.

The question is whether with the huge (so to speak) reducer the second servo will enter or not (I wish you) or we will be forced to fall back on the single servo.

The engine does not touch the rear lid because the correct installation is with the engine forward and not with the engine towards the stern of the vehicle.

By installing the motor towards the rear, the transmission shafts (which are not the same) do not position themselves correctly with respect to the axle shafts.

That is all for the moment. See you soon! happy holidays to all

Have you got any further on this Mr Met ?

excellent, nice project to play with