Sudden reduction in speed and battery life( metal track ups)

[RenoirLV]

A fan of lipo myself I wonder how much run time can one get out of nimh batteries and what the decent brands are. Some years ago I bought a nimh battery as a second battery for my HL tiger that came with liion super pack as they call it. It was able to move the tank for about 10 minutes. Now that tank is even heavier with all metal suspension. That same battery fully charged can move it one meter or less before dying. Liion can run the tank for nearly an hour. So what’s the point in being safe if you can’t play at all.


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[Max-U52]

Onyx makes a very good nihm battery. I get the 3000 mah at my local hobby shop for about $25 and it will run my heaviest tank for about 45 minutes to an hour.

But I'm also a huge fan of lipos and I use them quite a bit.

[Carrion]

i have ordered some 3300 MaH batteries from the tinterweb as reducing the tension helped but its still not there yet so from my airsoft days i know higher MAh means more running time. .
that said the metal tracks have increased offroad performance and COG issues considerably so they are here to stay plus they looks better. #RULE OF COOL

as a side note, i am not that bothered about the Smoke generator running all the time on my tiger. partially through battery life and mainly because its drawing power for an effect i cant see when its bouncing up and down on a trail so i dont get the effect from. i also cant be bothered to order more fluid....
. my henglong t34 has a selector on the remote for disabling it so Yay for henglong in that regard but the taigen tiger does not,

working hypothetically if i disconnect it from the board that should be it shouldnt it??????? or will the board throw a hissy fit for not being connected to something????

[RenoirLV]

I believe a simple unplugging should be enough. No consequences from that. The board should run without the speaker too. It’s just a bit weird when you don’t know when it’s ready to run.


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[Max-U52]

Taigen/Torro advise against using a Lipo in a Tank with a V2/V3 mfu.
If you can work out why a battery of the same voltage and output can if it is a Lipo harm your Tank when a NiMh or Ni-Cad of the same voltage and output will not then you are a better man than me BUT a few years ago there was a problem with Lipos operating in a Clark mfu equipped tank and it was suggested that initial start up on a new Clark board using a Ni-Cad or NiMH first then changing to a Lipo would sort out the problem,
Why I have no idea

I thought this was a pretty good question. Why would a lipo harm my tank when a different style battery with the same voltage Do no harm? So I had a conversation with Imex and here's what I took away from it, Imex makes their recommendations for the majority of their customer base. Believe it or not, scalehobbyists such as ourselves are not a large percentage of their sales. Most customers don't understand basic Electronics, let alone some of the stuff we get up to. Exercise a bit of care and make sure to use a low voltage alarm and there's no reason you can't use a lipo with a V2 or V3. Because of the charging issues and the fact that the large majority of their customers are made up of the Great unwashed, they just don't want to recommend lipos, and I think it's a good idea. I would imagine it saves a lot of lawsuits.

I use lipos with my V1, V2, and V3 units and I've only ever had a problem one time. I tried to run a full metal edition King Tiger with dual ratio gear boxes with black steel gears (brass would have been just fine) and a lipo and it was just too much for it. Had I been smart enough to swap in some 4 shaft gearboxes first I never would have had a single problem. So you guys can do what you want, but I've been using lipos all along and I plan to continue to do so. I hope there might have been some small nugget of information in here that was of use to someone.

[Max-U52]

One more thing, those gearboxes also had 380 Motors attached and I believe the steel gearboxes were the main problem. I cannot say for certain that I would not have blown the MFU had I been using a nimh battery. But that's the only time I've ever had any problem at all with a lipo battery. Knock on wood.

[Carrion]

thanks for the useful replies all

[Max-U52]

as a side note, i am not that bothered about the Smoke generator running all the time on my tiger. partially through battery life and mainly because its drawing power for an effect i cant see when its bouncing up and down on a trail so i dont get the effect from. i also cant be bothered to order more fluid....
. my henglong t34 has a selector on the remote for disabling it so Yay for henglong in that regard but the taigen tiger does not,

working hypothetically if i disconnect it from the board that should be it shouldnt it??????? or will the board throw a hissy fit for not being connected to something????

How old is your Taigen? The V2 and up use the toggle on the TX to turn off the smoke, before that they had a separate switch, and without the switch and the smoker plugged in there was no joy. Can you show a photo of the inside of your tank? And yes, simply unplugging the smoker will turn it off and no, it won't hurt anything.

[Carrion]

got it last week new from amazon. so Pass on which version it is. ill UL a photo tomorrow when real life shizzles have gone away

[jarndice]

Taigen/Torro advise against using a Lipo in a Tank with a V2/V3 mfu.
If you can work out why a battery of the same voltage and output can if it is a Lipo harm your Tank when a NiMh or Ni-Cad of the same voltage and output will not then you are a better man than me BUT a few years ago there was a problem with Lipos operating in a Clark mfu equipped tank and it was suggested that initial start up on a new Clark board using a Ni-Cad or NiMH first then changing to a Lipo would sort out the problem,
Why I have no idea

I thought this was a pretty good question. Why would a lipo harm my tank when a different style battery with the same voltage Do no harm? So I had a conversation with Imex and here's what I took away from it, Imex makes their recommendations for the majority of their customer base. Believe it or not, scalehobbyists such as ourselves are not a large percentage of their sales. Most customers don't understand basic Electronics, let alone some of the stuff we get up to. Exercise a bit of care and make sure to use a low voltage alarm and there's no reason you can't use a lipo with a V2 or V3. Because of the charging issues and the fact that the large majority of their customers are made up of the Great unwashed, they just don't want to recommend lipos, and I think it's a good idea. I would imagine it saves a lot of lawsuits.

I use lipos with my V1, V2, and V3 units and I've only ever had a problem one time. I tried to run a full metal edition King Tiger with dual ratio gear boxes with black steel gears (brass would have been just fine) and a lipo and it was just too much for it. Had I been smart enough to swap in some 4 shaft gearboxes first I never would have had a single problem. So you guys can do what you want, but I've been using lipos all along and I plan to continue to do so. I hope there might have been some small nugget of information in here that was of use to someone.

Thank you for talking to Erik, You Gary have confirmed that I can continue using Lipos in my Tanks whether they have an ASP or a Clark or an IBU2 or A V2/V3 or I think I still have an RX18 in one of them Not forgetting the Elmod in my M16,
I have been saying for years that as hobbyists we really are a very small sector in the marketplace for r/c Tanks and we are kidding ourselves if we think that because there are stalwarts like Erik, Dave and Dom who carry our banner that the manufacturer gives a hoot for us.
But saying that these three and others are true heroes in R/C Tanking
So don't lets forget them when next we are in the market for a new Tank or an upgrade,
They are here for us so let us make sure we are there for them.