[FIXED] Challenger 2 (Heng Long V6) Main gun not firing.

[Max-U52]

I think your problem is that the new 6.0 doesn't fire the same as the 5.3. On the 5.3. You hold down the shoulder button and then move the left stick forward, but on the 6.0. You never touch the stick, you push both the silver buttons at the same time. Try that and see what happens.

[Morkath]

Thanks for the suggestion, I did hold down the right shoulder button and press the left shoulder to fire previously, nothing happened. I can't really test that again until the unit is charged.

It's been on charge for an hour, plugged the battery back in and I can't even get it to start correctly. Lights flash, pushing the start button on the controller initiates the engine starting sound but the sound just loops continuously like an actual engine that won't turn over.

It's a 400mA charger with a 2000 battery, so guessing five hours to charge?

Will try it again after 5 hours but am not optimistic.

[Max-U52]

Remember that you have to push the non machine gun button first and hold it down and then push the machine gun button. I think if you push the machine gun button first, it doesn't work, you just get machine gun sounds.

[Morkath]

Yeah, I recall trying it both ways, first the right shoulder and then left shoulder, then the left shoulder first followed by right shoulder. as you say if you do the left first it just plays the machine gun sound/led.

Will let it charge but expect it a faulty tank or controller at this point.

[43rdRecceReg]

1. Is the IR module in place in the Commander's hatch? If I remember correctly, when the receiver is in place it nullifies the BB function.
2. You always need a full charge to test functions properly for serviceability, especially the cannon/recoil action.
3. Could simply be a loose wire in there, or a detached connector.
4. Welcome to the Forum. Abandon Hope all ye who enter here You already have an interesting, if atypical RCtanker CV.

Edit: I'm not sure you can pair a 5.3 transmitter with the V 6.0 control board, as the firmware in V6's own transmitter is probably different, in order to match the revised functions. The transmitters look identical; but don't offer the same features. I could be wrong, of course.
In any event, it might be a good idea to try to re-pair your transmitter and tank once you've charged the TX up.

[Morkath]

1. Is the IR module in place in the Commander's hatch? If I remember correctly, when the receiver is in place it nullifies the BB function.
2. You always need a full charge to test functions properly for serviceability, especially the cannon/recoil action.
3. Could simply be a loose wire in there, or a detached connector.
4. Welcome to the Forum. Abandon Hope all ye who enter here You already have an interesting, if atypical RCtanker CV.

Thanks, tbh I'm screwed now lol, when I bought the Chally I'd already decided I wanted to detail it as an invasion of iraq 2003 style, so front and side ERA packages, exhaust armour, IR identity plates on front and rear of turret.

Then I saw the speed some of the modified modern RC tanks get up to and decided it might be fun to completely overhaul the RC to make it into a real beast.

I spent the first half of the afternoon drawing up a spreadsheet of things to retrofit to the tank from googling (already had a rough idea from previous research for the Torro Tiger 2 I upgraded).

Then I found the build threads here...

I think the upper hull and lower hulls will remain the original pieces with additional detailing, the rest...I think all of it is going.

The only reason I'll keep the lower hull is that the DKLM lower hull is insanely expensive, that and I don't know what the motors are like in that kit so would suck to pay extra for gearboxes that I don't like.

So yeah...I thought you could spend around £400 on replacement parts, but right now looks closer to around £800.

I also realised that it's quite a but more complicated than I previously thought, originally I had one gearbox in mind, now I have three. I was going to go for a Lipo 5000 battery but read somewhere certain MFU's don't support them so really I'll need to carefully consider a lot of parts and their compatibility before I go acquiring things and so I suppose this is the place to come to bounce ideas off of people who've got experience doing this kind of work.

[Morkath]

Oh, as to your suggestions.

I tried the IR sensor plugged in thinking the same thing but no joy. Checked inside and there were no loose connectors (maybe one but I pushed it in and no joy), No loose wires that I can see either.

Since I was sending the tank back I didn't fancy unplugging everything just yet so I only checked inside so far as I could without disconnecting the whole thing.

Battery has been on charge for near 4 hours, the plug charger that came with it has an indicator that has gone green, I guess that indicates it might be charged, I've left it plugged in but have no idea if it still charging when that light is on.

[Morkath]

At first I thought it had gotten worse, sounding like the turning over sound was going on forever but it just seems that volume was on the lowest setting and that's the only sound that plays.

It works aside from the cannon fire.

[Morkath]

Looks like I've fixed it.

When I plugged the battery back in pressing and holding the Right hand shoulder button labelled "Bullet Shooting" and then pressing the left hand shoulder still did not work, but I also noticed that when holding it down and then pressing the left hand shoulder the machine gun sounds and lighting still went off.

It seemed very likely that the right hand shoulder button press was not being recognised at all otherwise it would likely have stopped the machine gun signal from being sent to the tank.

So I opened up the remote/controller, it seems the plastic at the top was welded or glued together so I couldn't completely open it as I might have needed to return it but I could open it wide enough to follow the cables from the right hand shoulder button all the way back to the connector to the circuit board, it was pushed in, I pushed it in a little harder with my finger (and bent it slightly) anyone else trying this be very careful, it's easy to bend the PCB connector off the circuit board I imagine.

Now if I hold the right shoulder, then press the left shoulder whilst still holding the right shoulder in the cannon fires and the machine gun sound/lighting does not.

On my to buy list along with a replacement MFU is a new remote, the term "cheap" fails to even begin describe this remote that Heng Long supplied, it does the job and keeps the price down which is likely the point but well,I guess you've all seen them before and maybe have a bucket full of them somewhere, it'll do as a spare for any and all Heng Long 2.4GHz's tanks I've collected one day.

[43rdRecceReg]

Looks like I've fixed it.



On my to buy list along with a replacement MFU is a new remote, the term "cheap" fails to even begin describe this remote that Heng Long supplied, it does the job and keeps the price down which is likely the point but well,I guess you've all seen them before and maybe have a bucket full of them somewhere, it'll do as a spare for any and all Heng Long 2.4GHz's tanks I've collected one day.

Don't forget to check for compatibility between transmitters and control units. A late transmitter will not work with early HL tanks. Your problem is quite unusual, I think. HL TX/RX gear might well be 'cheap as chips', but in recent years, it has proved to be reasonably robust. Your rogue TX should be a rarity, I think.
The latest Taigen V3 systems allow the user to employ a 3rd party hobby-grade transmitter with their Multifunction unit/receiver. While the V6 HL unit is a massive improvement on previous iterations, it will only work with HL's own transmitter.
Best of luck with your future upgrades. I appears you've already got the enhancement bug, and so thus process is likely be a pleasant (if frustrating- sometimes) experience for you