RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Jofaur I agree with you,
Logically there should not be any difference operationally but in practice there sometimes is, When I bought my first CLARK T22 MFU I was advised to initialise it with a Ni-Cad or a Ni-Mh and once it was working properly then I could safely use a Li-Po battery,
And that's how I got my T22 working without problems whereas a number of Forum members have suffered problems when using Li-Pos from the start.

Ultimately its 'do what ya like sunshine-not my tank' but looking at the operation of Taigen system tanks with lipo batteries, as against the normal standard yellow cased H/L ni-cads .............something was wrong.
I read somewhere, (still trying to find it) that the Taigen systems do not like odd power.
Now Im certain they dont mean odd brands, types or suchlike, but if the voltage or its delivery is not accurate, the system fails.

Im not going to get into a debate on the table of elements when used in battery storage, but I can say based on visual evidence from the taigen systems I have seen & used with lipo batteries instead of Nicads, they do not work, or is they do, the do not work as intended.

As is said in motor vehicles "your mileage may vary" , but from what Ive seen & driven, stick to the SAME (not close enough) voltage output produced from Ni Cad batteries.

Its similar to the cars I see around that have black sooty stains around the exhausts.
Years of R & D by expert engineers to give you a vehicle that does its best to compromise power, efficiency, durability and reliability, & the gas-tards decide that boring holes in the airbox & taking out the filter is going to make it better
Like they are experts

I have V1 Taigen in my white Tiger
V3 in my F05
Used V2 in a PzIV (Taigen factory)not mine
Used V3 in a Tiger (Taigen Factory)not mine
Tried Lipo in all.
failed to have normal function in all.
Removed the lipos
Installed normal cheap ass Ni cads varying from 1700mh thru 5000mh
Normal service restored.

Not my tank ?
Good luck.

Which abnormal function are those?

Because I have tested all kinds of batteries with my tanks and all of them worked exactly the same.

I have used all types over the past 30 years and used them hard in 1/10th racing. Lipos give great high output amps (burst) and are a little lighter but are more temperamental in use. You shouldn't store them full or too low although you can sometimes recover them by recharging them.as a NiCad to get them.up to their minimum voltage, then finish as a Lipo. However, l only used hard case Lipos and always use a charging pouch.

NiMhs are my clear preference for lower amp uses, such as trucks and tanks. They are very stable, can be fully dumped and are easy to store. They come in all capacities and good quality examples can be found cheap. Regards size/space, a stock 7.2v 6 cell pack can be safely dismantled and rebuilt in a convenient string so it can be wound around a complex busy hull. For example, my Torro Pro T34/85 3800 6 cell is made of 1, 2, 1, 2 cell string with the cells connected by cable and this allows me to use high capacity packs rather than the 2/3 sub-C 1800mah pack supplied by Torro.

When soldering cells to cells or wires, always use a large tipped high wattage soldering iron (60W) so that a good joint can be made quickly as you don't want to allow the cell to overheat.

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General Jumbo01 wrote:I have used all types over the past 30 years and used them hard in 1/10th racing. Lipos give great high output amps (burst) and are a little lighter but are more temperamental in use. You shouldn't store them full or too low although you can sometimes recover them by recharging them.as a NiCad to get them.up to their minimum voltage, then finish as a Lipo. However, l only used hard case Lipos and always use a charging pouch.

NiMhs are my clear preference for lower amp uses, such as trucks and tanks. They are very stable, can be fully dumped and are easy to store. They come in all capacities and good quality examples can be found cheap. Regards size/space, a stock 7.2v 6 cell pack can be safely dismantled and rebuilt in a convenient string so it can be wound around a complex busy hull. For example, my Torro Pro T34/85 3800 6 cell is made of 1, 2, 1, 2 cell string with the cells connected by cable and this allows me to use high capacity packs rather than the 2/3 sub-C 1800mah pack supplied by Torro.

When soldering cells to cells or wires, always use a large tipped high wattage soldering iron (60W) so that a good joint can be made quickly as you don't want to allow the cell to overheat.

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Useful wee review of the options available. I'm with you on the NiMh preference. When you have almost every spare powerpoint in the house recharging something or other, from the vacuum cleaner to the smart phone, laptop, torches and more; it's easy to overlook the bags packed with hot Li-Pos.
In any event, a good charger with built-in protection and LED lights to indicate charging status, is a must, I think.

Absolutely agree your last point too. I know just about all tanks come with batteries and a charger but you really should invest in a well specified charger that deals with all cell types, charging, discharging and cycling, charge rates etc which, now the Chinese make good examples, are no longer an expensive luxury. With packs of a high capacity and C rating you can safely charge a cell pack in a fraction of the time it takes using the supplied plugin charger.

Hello
I totaly agree,the original delivered batteries ase not rarely do the indicated caoacity?
When the charger wich is in fact only transformer sith 4 diodes,and r?gulation system,or limitation of current A good automatic charger ( said intelligent ) it is found at very good price and quality .
Coisirly accus batteries brands,and capacity of 4000 Mah sems to be a good compromise,perso

For what it's worth - I currently run a 3s lipo in a HL/DKLM Challenger 2 through a Clark TK60 with no problems at all. It took a while to find one with similar dimensions to the original battery but it has plenty of power to shift my tank along at sensible speeds given it's weight (full metal hull & drivetrain and a DKLM PDSGB) of a little over 15lbs/7kg.

I had to check with those who know to make sure the board could handle the upped voltage (12v vs 7v) but so far I've had no problems at all.

Having just discovered that my pile of 3700mah and 4300mah Nimh batteries that I have had for many years, and have been left unused for almost 12 months, have lost their ability to provide a decent voltage for more than 15-30 mins I am going to try 2S Lipo's (as I have new ones that I use in other RC models).

I can't see any problems, a fully charged Nimh is 8.6v, a fully charged 2S Lipo is around 9v. It's worth the test, my Elmod boards are designed to take them, complete with a low battery warning, and a simple plug in battery monitor will work on my Clark boards.

I will post any issues that arise.

wibblywobbly wrote:Having just discovered that my pile of 3700mah and 4300mah Nimh batteries that I have had for many years, and have been left unused for almost 12 months, have lost their ability to provide a decent voltage for more than 15-30 mins I am going to try 2S Lipo's (as I have new ones that I use in other RC models).

I can't see any problems, a fully charged Nimh is 8.6v, a fully charged 2S Lipo is around 9v. It's worth the test, my Elmod boards are designed to take them, complete with a low battery warning, and a simple plug in battery monitor will work on my Clark boards.

I will post any issues that arise.

Why dont you try 18650s?

I abandoned lipos and use them now. Way safer. I had a couple or three of almost house in flames experiences with lipos...